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Rattleguard Bed liner
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#1 |
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Registered User
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Rattleguard Bed liner
I purchased one of these small kits on ebay about two months ago and have been waiting to get everything ready to spray it inside my entire cab. The kit cost just under $100 and the gun I purchased was around $20. I have yet to figure out how to post pics ( do I need to upload them to our server and link it up here?, if so, do i just use standard html?) I did things quite a bit different than I originally thought that I would. It reccommends that you sand using around 40 grit to rough up the metal. I figured Id go a step further and use a grinder and really give it some teeth to bite into! (This my dad reccommended) Then I sandblasted all the really problem areas, and patched in some new sheetmetal in the doorjam where it had rotted out. I mixed up half the materials and loaded it into the undercoating gun and started to spray. I was not happy at all with how it was coming out. At the rate I was currently going, it would have taken about 4 or 5 hours to cover everything. Since this stuff sets up in about 45 minutes, this was a problem. I tried reducing it even more with almost the same results. My dad was here helping me with this and said...."You know, this stuff shoots out the same as wall textrue does, Ill be right back" I continue to attempt to shoot this stuff on. Dad comes back a few minutes later with a hopper that he uses for spraying texture on walls. I was llike, there is no way this is going to work, but may as well give it a try. So we put a little bit into the hopper and I began to spray. All I can say is WOW! This stuff went on exactly like its supposed to , only I was able to cover the entire front of the cab in about 5 minutes after reloading. The overspray is more of course, and there are some spots that are quite difficult to get, like around the pedals. But all in all, I think that this is the ONLY way to go. I shot all the material in about 15 minutes and it looks really good. Only problem is that I ran out short near the end of the bed, so I orderered another kit. To do a full entire cab you would need the large kit and have some left over, or you could put it on rather thick. Cant wait to finish and would love to show some pictures. I have read some bad things about the application of this stuff, from too runny all the way to much too thick, but after sh*t canning the old gun and using the hopper, this stuff layed down super easy and looks amazing. Will post pictures as soon as I figure out how.
Thanks, Corey ![]() |
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Hollywood, Florida
Posts: 687
iTrader: (1) Bronco Info: 1992 Ford Bronco XLT 5.0 E40D 6in Lift 36in swampers!
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hey gald you liked it, let me help you with posting pictures, First get a supermotors.org account and make a folder which you can upload the pictures too.(this is guess you know basic computer/web skills) after uploading you most right click properties and get the URL (link for the picture file) when you goto post it on here you either click the image tag on the Fourms or put in [ img ] http:supermotors.or/images/24562/bedliner.jpeg [ / img ] (With no spaces)
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#3 |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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[ img ] http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/....php?id=211712 [img]
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#5 |
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Registered User
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[img]http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=211712[img]
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#6 |
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Just another Fat Guy
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 719
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: Truck-less right now =(
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you need to close your "tag" the last [img] tag needs to be closed like this [/img]
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Getting another FSB soon -- currently rocking a beetle
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Here is a before pic, I had not really done much to the inside other than remove the all the interior, including carpet, and that black vinyl stuff. Was really rusty in some spots.
I then got out the handy dandy grinder and spent quite a few hours removing as much of the rust as I could, as well as grinding down everything to give the bedliner something it could really sink its teeth into :) What I couldnt get with the grinder I got with the sandblaster I picked up from Harbor Freight Tools. Here is the patch I did which was my first one ever with my new welder, also the old bondo that was there And from the backend before I shoot After I shot the stuff like I mentioned above, this is an OK shot of how it turned out. Unfortunately I did not have enough of the stuff to finish, so this is where it stopped until the rest of it arrives Ill post some more pics of it in the sun with the doorjambs and such later today! |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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I used the image button this time, and the tags are there, but nothing is showing up...hrmmm
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#9 |
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otherwise respectable
![]() Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: North of Baltimore
Posts: 697
iTrader: (1) Bronco Info: 1994 XLT 351, 4 inches and 33's
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here ya go, looks damn good too. Nice job and write up.
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1994 Fullsize Bronco ~ 4 Inches - 33" M/T's - Flowmaster - K&N - Optima Redtop - 130amp 3G Alt - Bushwhacker Flares - Oil leak - Rust - no radio |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Thx Blazen, as soon as the other kit comes in, ill try to post some pics of it when its complete.
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: tacoma Wa
Posts: 99
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 84 full-size |351|.040 over|c6|2 body lift|33x12.5 dir| with 6" bull horns on the front.
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that looks dam good! What was the name of the kit you got or was it like a 2 or 3 part mixture? How dow it feel compared to rino or line-X?
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351 .040 over high-rise intake edelbrock 650 crab ford headers rework heads new cam with a range 1500 rpm to 6500 rpm with a C6 form ¾ ton tyranny BFG dir. 32- 12.5 warn manu, huds look at my vB Garage to see motor |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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I used this kit
I did however have to buy another kit to finish the job. To start with I would buy a large kit which makes about 3 gallons of the stuff. There were 5 parts to mix up. There was the main component, the catalyst, the reducer, the color, and the rubber. As far as how it looks and feels, I think it feels a bit softer than rhinolining to the touch but is still very strong. There are a few test spots where a single dot of the stuff is stuck to the bed. The single dot is almost impossible to get off, you have to really work at it to get it to move at all, so the stuff when all together is not coming off no matter what. Im really impressed and already have 4 buddies lned up that want theirs done as well. Will let you know how it holds up under some stress :) |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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Morton, Im in Silverdale WA ...about 30-45 minutes from you
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#14 |
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FSB's future MOD, fo shiz
![]() Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Somewhere between Illusion and Denial
Posts: 2,843
iTrader: (25) Bronco Info: I dont have one any more. 1994 F-350 crewcab flatbed. 351w efi 10.25" e4od.
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looks sweet!! I just did my interior with duplicolor aerosol can bedliner shit....lots o fun!! only used 16 cans of the stuff
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Josh Rogers ![]() Rogers Racing Products Your Local Hometown AMSOIL Dealer! Sig courtesy of KoJ CLICKY----> THE DESTROYER PARTS FOR SALE---->CLICKY ![]() BR is still an emo kid.
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#17 |
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Registered User
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Kaudbron,
I think there were only a few wires under the carpet. There were a pair going to each rear speaker that were there, but they did not look original. Then there were the ones that went to the drivers side seat belt which Im probably going to leave out. Xris, What I did was removed the rest of the rusty metal that was there. I needed to replace a section about 6 inches long of the flange that the door seal attatched to. It ran all the way to the back of the jamb, and then followed the curve up to the lateral part of the jamb as well. I sandblasted all the rust out that I couldnt get to by cutting to prep the surface. I used a piece of cardboard for a template and cut it out to what looked about right. So what I had was a piece of cardboard that was shaped like a half moon on the inside and flat on the bottom. I transferred the pattern onto a piece of 20 gauge sheetmetal and then secured the sheetmetal to begin cutting it. I bought a "nibbler" from harbor freight for under $20 and used that to cut the shape out that I needed. The thing worked like a charm. After that, I then used some body hammers and the flat edge of my bumper hitch to bend the bottom flap over to match the original. After I had the desired shape as well as the flange on the bottom where it attatches to the main part of the body, I trimmed a bit until it fit just right. I tacked it into place with my new Mig welder Im just learning how to use all these tools, so although alot of people on here could have done much better, Im happy with how it turned out. On a side note, in the first picture, you can also see some rust through right behind the doorjamb on the outside. I decided to be brave and cut that out all as well, made a new piece about the size of a golfball that goes from the body line where the door closes about 5 inches back and all the way from the bottom up to the first curve of the body line. So far everything is holding up pretty well, I got another kit like I mentioned earlier in the thread and just got back from Disneyland and San Diego, so probably this next weekend, Ill finish the bedliner portion of this. Im trying to decide where else Im going to put this stuff, have even thought about going all the way around on the lower portion of the body, just up to that first bodyline with it, but its just a thought for right now. |
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#18 |
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Registered User
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Thanks Ragged, Im really happy with it so far. I havent seen the duplicolor cans of spray on, hope it worked out well for ya though. This stuff is ultra messy.
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#20 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 82
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1990 EB Bronco
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That's sweet, I want to use that as my paint job!!
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1990 EB "Asphalt undercoating"-black 302/AOD - Stock 4" Rancho lift with 35x12.5 BFGAT's |
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