Tranny cooler install questions

[equin]

Hey Amigos,

I did a search and came up with a bunch of threads on tranny coolers, but none of them explain in detail exactly how to install one. Most talk about what kind to get (stacked plate supposedly better than tube and fin) and whether or not to go with the in-radiator, or bypass it altogether. I realize it's supposed to be an easy mod, but since I've never done one, I'm still a bit leery on exactly how to do it - mostly the cutting of the return tranny line.

I have a Hayden, stacked plate style tranny cooler I'd like to install while the tranny is out. The Hayden instructions say that Ford vehicles after 1983 need a kit with some special fittings. I found the kit at Pep Boys for about $15. But a few of the threads I've found say that cutting and flaring the line and then putting the hose over the flared end with a hose clamp on it should work. Is Hayden just simply trying to sell another product that I may not need? Which method should I go with?

And sorry for the dumb question, but what does "NPT" and "MPT" stand for? My ignorant guess is that they're a measurement or specific type of fitting that goes on the end of a pipe to connect a rubber hose. Which end goes where? From looking at the fittings in that Hayden kit, it looks like the rubber hose should go on the narrowed end, while the threaded part threads into the tranny line where it's cut. Is that right? Again, sorry for the ignorant question, but the Hayden instructions don't really explain it well enough for a reluctant noob like me.

With regard to cutting and flaring the return line, where did y'all cut the line? The length of line I'm thinking of cutting is that part that runs just below the length of the radiator. It runs pretty straight along that part. Is that a good area? If not, what other area along the length of the line should I cut? Also, how much of the line should I cut? About 5" to 6"? Anyone have any info and pics of where they cut the lines and how they hooked up the tranny cooler hoses?

Another thing I noticed is that the tranny cooler lines run real close to the exhaust. I'm wondering if that may be part of the reason why the tranny fluid heated up so much. The cat converter has a heat shield on it, and there's also a little heat shield on the E4OD right by where the return line goes in just above the rear part of the pan. Is there anything else I can add to shield the heat from the tranny lines? I wouldn't want the fluid that just got cool from the tranny cooler, to then heat up again as it passes by the exhaust.

Lastly, at Pepboys and O'Reilly's, I saw some bottle made by Pro Blend with a special liquid that supposedly reduces the tranny fluid temp by about 50 degrees. You're supposed to pour the whole bottle in through the dipstick tube and it should last til you flush out the old fluid after about 25K miles. Anyone use this stuff and does it really work? I noticed they also sell a bottle specifically for coolant, but mine is working fine. I just don't want the tranny to overheat and crap out on me again - hence the tranny cooler and the interest in this special temp reducing liquid.

I have a 93 Bronco 5.0 with an E4OD (original E4OD overheated and crapped out on me - so a used one from a salvage yard is waiting in my driveway to go in).

Thanks for any info, tips, warnings and advice.

[cultex]

I bought a B&M racing tranny cooler, external from the radiator. My original tranny cooler was causing my truck to constantly overheat.

I mounted the tranny cooler just behind the front grill. I cut the original cooler hoses from the tranny, and used rubber hosing with the same inside diamater to connect the cooler lines from the tranny to the cooler. Then I just got some miniture radiator style clamps and tightened the hell out of them.

I've had plenty of people say the rubber lines will blow off like that, but it's been on there for over two years like that with no problems. With how hot the E4OD gets, I would recommend a tranny cooler fan as well. I know a lot of external tranny coolers have this pre-mounted as an option.

I don't know anything about the chemical cooling.

[Dangling_Dave]

The "special fittings" are required only if you route the fluid back through the in radiator cooler. What a lot of people do is to cut both lines, use a 5/16" flare to NPT adapter then thread a 3/8" hose barb in place. Then run the lines to your cooler. With the output of the tranny going into the bottom of the cooler and the output of the cooler going back to the tranny. Totally bypassing the in radiator cooler. I had my in radiator cooler start leaking anti-freeze into my tranny in January.

I will shoot some pictures at lunch time to better explain this.

NPT, National Pipe Thread
NPTM, Male Pipe Thread
NPTF, Female Pipe Thread

Note that tubing like which is used for the tranny cooler lines is measured on the "ID" or inside diameter, while Pipe is measured on the "OD" or outside diameter.

Note that pipe thread and flare fitting threads will not join to each other.

So what I have is basically"
5/16" tube from the tranny, 5/16" flare fitting (looks like an acorn) then the union from 5/16" flare to 1/4" NPT (national pipe thread) into a female 3/8" hose barb.

Then from the hose barb a short peice of 3/8" tranny cooler hose into an external oil filter then into the bottom of my cooler. Then from the top of the cooler back into rubber hose and fittings back to the tranny.

dc

[Sixlitre]

Hi Equin

Dave's answered most of your questions and, like cultex, I went B&M stacked plate. I'm in Canada, but realizing you're in Texas forget the special fittings and using the in-rad cooler, you won't need either. In fact the in-rad cooler has been attributed to the death of several E4ODs right here on this site because of sludge build up in the in-rad tube.

I've owned a lot of vehicles over the last 28 years or so, and I've never flared the ends at all, and never had a hose leak. All you have to do is cut the steel lines going into the rad, or at any convenient place that will help reduce the amount of hose needed, and slip the hose over them. Just be sure to use two hose clamps on each hose you clamp, it ain't-a-gonna leak.

Can you make out the two, opposed, hoseclamps in the pic ?



You said you're sticking in a used E4OD correct ? Bet you'd like to be able to clean it out thoroughly but you don't dare take it apart and void their 30 minute warantee right ?

Wouldn't it be nice to be able to clean it gradually and easily ? Think very seriously about investing $34 and getting one of these;



Read up on it here;

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/...=17326#content

I've had one on mine for 90,000 miles or more. Thought the AOD was about to buy the farm back then, stuck it on and it got better immediately and has shifted better than when I got the truck ever since.

Helped an F-150 buddy stick one on last Saturday and he noticed a major difference right away and it's getting even better this week he said.

Think about it, plumbing it in is as simple as interupting one of those hoses.

Sixlitre

[Dangling_Dave]

Here are some quick pictures that I shot when I did the swap. Didn't know that I had them here at the office.











Link to all the pictures.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/...=25118#content

[equin]

You guys rock!

I'm going to study your replies and pics. Hope y'all don't mind if I have some more questions to ask later on when I start delving into it. Thanks a bunch!

[RLKBOB]

Originally Posted by Sixlitre

I've never flared the ends at all, and never had a hose leak. All you have to do is cut the steel lines going into the rad, or at any convenient place that will help reduce the amount of hose needed, and slip the hose over them. Just be sure to use two hose clamps on each hose you clamp, it ain't-a-gonna leak.

I agree, that's all I did 4 years ago and it hasn't leaked a drop.