FullSizeBronco.com - 78 - 96 Ford Bronco offroad club, forums, tech, installs

Aikidoka · 11-02-2004, 02:32 PM

Well after I did my saginaw swap I discovered I was still loosing power steering fluid. After some investigating I noticed it was coming from around the pitman arm. I got a seal kit from Ford (D7AZ-3E501-B). Make it easy on your self and get a pitman arm puller and a torch. Mark the pitman arm (actually it is keyed to go on only 4 ways) and steering box before removal so they go back together in the same position.

Here's the offending part. The seals you need to change are around that shaft pointing at the camera.

Here are the kit's contents. Three seals and a snap ring.

Flip the box over and take out the two bolts holding the shaft in place. You'll need a 3/4 inch wrench.

Set the box down on the shaft and it will pop up so you can pull it out.

Pick out the large seal once the shaft is out.

Flip the box over again. You'll probably have to scrape a lot of grime from around the shaft's exit point to find the snap ring ends.

The seal under the snap ring can be pried up. The next one might require you to flip the box over again and knock it out with a screw driver and hammer. Be careful not to scratch any of the surfaces. Once out you don't have to worry about the rollers falling out. There is a metal rim to keep them in.

Here's the order of the seals going in. On the bottom one, make sure the groove with the spring in it faces in.

Both seals and the snap ring installed.

Now on a side note, I took out the other shaft (9/16 inch) out of curiosity and to reduce some of the weight while I was working on it. Mark the position of this shaft's internals so you put it back at the same position. Be careful when the shaft is out. The bottom section can spin all the way off the top section. If this happens, quite a few ball bearings will fall out. Have no fear. The shaft is built to allow them to easily be reinstalled. On the side of this bottom piece you will find a split, horseshoe shaped tube. If you remove the cap over it (3/8 inch) you will see a hole to reinsert the ball bearings.

Now just reinstall and your are good to go!

**GHOSTRIDER** · 11-02-2004, 03:23 PM

Excellent write up and pix......lookingud!

**Oscar** · 11-02-2004, 04:13 PM

good write up I did the same thing on Bobbys Bronco last year and it is easy

**Sixlitre** · 11-02-2004, 04:23 PM

Man that's relavent Aikidoka !

and great pics and explanations ! It's that or my steel loop PS cooler piping that's leaking a bit right now(can't be my new saginaw!). Gotta try that ! How much was the seal kit ?

Great write up

Sixlitre

chvyboat · 11-02-2004, 06:05 PM

Its called a sector shaft seal. And why did you not just remove the outer c clip, with the box still in the truck, start the truck, turn the stearing wheel, left or right and pop, out comes the sector shaft seal. Clean, and reinstall the new sector shaft.

Unless your gear box was also leaing from the top plate, in that case, I still would have done it in the truck, but after poping out the sector shaft seal, then I would have pulled the top plate and replaced that seal first, than the sector shaft seal.

Just courious why you would double your work?

**Sixlitre** · 11-02-2004, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chvyboat

Its called a sector shaft seal. And why did you not just remove the outer c clip, with the box still in the truck, start the truck, turn the stearing wheel, left or right and pop, out comes the sector shaft seal. Clean, and reinstall the new sector shaft.

Unless your gear box was also leaing from the top plate, in that case, I still would have done it in the truck, but after poping out the sector shaft seal, then I would have pulled the top plate and replaced that seal first, than the sector shaft seal.

Just courious why you would double your work?

Pretty smart for Chev driver

I answered my own question and found out the kit is didley priced at $28.00 CDN (American pocket change).

My question to you, Chvyboat, is; The Ford counterman told me it'd be a waste of my time as my shaft would be pitted. Mine has been leaking very slighly for about a year now. It may be my PS cooler pipe running along the front of my TTB or it may be this seal.

I've never let my saginaw, or the platic pump before it, go below add so how the F#^& could I have a pitted shaft if it's been submerged in fluid ?

Is he just shining me on to lube my back passage for the new pump screw ?

Sixlitre

Aikidoka · 11-02-2004, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chvyboat

Its called a sector shaft seal. And why did you not just remove the outer c clip, with the box still in the truck, start the truck, turn the stearing wheel, left or right and pop, out comes the sector shaft seal. Clean, and reinstall the new sector shaft.

Unless your gear box was also leaing from the top plate, in that case, I still would have done it in the truck, but after poping out the sector shaft seal, then I would have pulled the top plate and replaced that seal first, than the sector shaft seal.

Just courious why you would double your work?

Well seeing that I removed the other shaft out of curiosity why do you think? Oh wait, you're a Chevy guy.

Oh and I was so tempted to tap the box for a hydro assist, but I figured I never would buy the lift kit and big tires.

Aikidoka · 11-02-2004, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sixlitre

Pretty smart for Chev driver

I answered my own question and found out the kit is didley priced at $28.00 CDN (American pocket change).

My question to you, Chvyboat, is; The Ford counterman told me it'd be a waste of my time as my shaft would be pitted. Mine has been leaking very slighly for about a year now. It may be my PS cooler pipe running along the front of my TTB or it may be this seal.

I think it's costing me about $15. Gotta find out how much I owe the guy that got the kit for me. My
shaft looked like it had the start of grooves, but hopefully that will not keep the new kit from sealing.

chvyboat · 11-02-2004, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sixlitre

Pretty smart for Chev driver

I answered my own question and found out the kit is didley priced at $28.00 CDN (American pocket change).

My question to you, Chvyboat, is; The Ford counterman told me it'd be a waste of my time as my shaft would be pitted. Mine has been leaking very slighly for about a year now. It may be my PS cooler pipe running along the front of my TTB or it may be this seal.

I've never let my saginaw, or the platic pump before it, go below add so how the F#^& could I have a pitted shaft if it's been submerged in fluid ?

Is he just shining me on to lube my back passage for the new pump screw ?

Sixlitre

its possible that its pitted or scored, but more likely not. Besides 30 bucks for a sector shaft seal kit vs. 200+ for a new sag box. MMMMMMMMMMM I will try the seal first.

Yea, I took an old box apart just to see its gutts myself

Aikidoka · 11-03-2004, 12:04 AM

Next is the actual sag pump......

**Sixlitre** · 11-03-2004, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aikidoka

Next is the actual sag pump......

Don't sweat it, that's easy.

Just rob a van of similar year and you'll have what you need. I got the bracket from a 78 E-van for my 86 Bronco and bought a remaned saginaw, using the junker saginaw for the core.

Sixlitre

Aikidoka · 11-03-2004, 09:23 AM

Oh I already have a sag. I actually have about three of them. I meant the next rebuild is a sag. I have some POR-15 and am painting engine brakets and I was also going to do the sag pump. So while it's off I figured I just do the seal kit I have on it since I don't know the pumps age.

11-02-2004, 02:32 PM	#1
Aikidoka Who needs oil anyways.... Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Baltimore, MD Posts: 1,748 iTrader: (1) Bronco Info: 86 Bronco 351W Aikidokas Garage	Steering box, lower sector shaft seal kit install Well after I did my saginaw swap I discovered I was still loosing power steering fluid. After some investigating I noticed it was coming from around the pitman arm. I got a seal kit from Ford (D7AZ-3E501-B). Make it easy on your self and get a pitman arm puller and a torch. Mark the pitman arm (actually it is keyed to go on only 4 ways) and steering box before removal so they go back together in the same position. Here's the offending part. The seals you need to change are around that shaft pointing at the camera. Here are the kit's contents. Three seals and a snap ring. Flip the box over and take out the two bolts holding the shaft in place. You'll need a 3/4 inch wrench. Set the box down on the shaft and it will pop up so you can pull it out. Pick out the large seal once the shaft is out. Flip the box over again. You'll probably have to scrape a lot of grime from around the shaft's exit point to find the snap ring ends. The seal under the snap ring can be pried up. The next one might require you to flip the box over again and knock it out with a screw driver and hammer. Be careful not to scratch any of the surfaces. Once out you don't have to worry about the rollers falling out. There is a metal rim to keep them in. Here's the order of the seals going in. On the bottom one, make sure the groove with the spring in it faces in. Both seals and the snap ring installed. Now on a side note, I took out the other shaft (9/16 inch) out of curiosity and to reduce some of the weight while I was working on it. Mark the position of this shaft's internals so you put it back at the same position. Be careful when the shaft is out. The bottom section can spin all the way off the top section. If this happens, quite a few ball bearings will fall out. Have no fear. The shaft is built to allow them to easily be reinstalled. On the side of this bottom piece you will find a split, horseshoe shaped tube. If you remove the cap over it (3/8 inch) you will see a hole to reinsert the ball bearings. Now just reinstall and your are good to go! __________________ Size does matter. That is why they make 40oz. I am not a mechanic. I reserve the right for anything I say to be wrong. 1993 EB Bronco 351W w/ 345K! 1990 Bronco 351W clean & rebuild in progress 1986 Bronco XLT 351W HO EFI Conv Partial F-350 brake conv (still need to do calipers) Crower 15935 baja beast cam 1985 Parts Bronco. Also 351W and stripped down My gallery

11-02-2004, 03:23 PM	#2
GHOSTRIDER Old Man with an Old Truck Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: BRANDON MS Posts: 5,396 iTrader: (2) Bronco Info: 90 XLT/351W, 6" LFT SAS, 9" 35" TIRES , 4.56, LOCKED, REALLY COOL SNORKEL, OTHER COSTLY CHIT Blog Entries: 1 GHOSTRIDERs Garage	Excellent write up and pix......lookingud! __________________ Riding on in the mist of morning, no one dares stand in my way...possessed by some distant calling, riding on through night and day. PETE HALEY

11-02-2004, 04:13 PM	#3
Oscar Fullsize Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Keflavik Iceland Posts: 1,533 iTrader: (1) Bronco Info: To much to list look at my supermotors site Oscars Garage	good write up I did the same thing on Bobbys Bronco last year and it is easy __________________ 1996 Bronco now 514 efi bigblock(was 351 sc) E40D sas D-60 and 10.25 5.38gears 46 claws http://www.superford.org/registry/ve...dex.php?vID=26

11-02-2004, 04:23 PM	#4
Sixlitre Practicing Infidel Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Ottawa Ontario Canada Posts: 14,625 iTrader: (1) Bronco Info: 86 Eddie Bauer; EFI 5.0 liter, AOD, optimized ignition system, external tranny filter, urethane bush Sixlitres Garage	Man that's relavent Aikidoka ! and great pics and explanations ! It's that or my steel loop PS cooler piping that's leaking a bit right now(can't be my new saginaw!). Gotta try that ! How much was the seal kit ? Great write up Sixlitre __________________ My Superford site http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4970&s=17328#content

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Steering box, lower shaft seal kit install

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11-02-2004, 06:05 PM	#5
chvyboat Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Cumming GA, its right after moaning! Posts: 737 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: chevy chvyboats Garage	Its called a sector shaft seal. And why did you not just remove the outer c clip, with the box still in the truck, start the truck, turn the stearing wheel, left or right and pop, out comes the sector shaft seal. Clean, and reinstall the new sector shaft. Unless your gear box was also leaing from the top plate, in that case, I still would have done it in the truck, but after poping out the sector shaft seal, then I would have pulled the top plate and replaced that seal first, than the sector shaft seal. Just courious why you would double your work?

11-03-2004, 12:04 AM	#10
Aikidoka Who needs oil anyways.... Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Baltimore, MD Posts: 1,748 iTrader: (1) Bronco Info: 86 Bronco 351W Aikidokas Garage	Next is the actual sag pump......

11-03-2004, 09:23 AM	#12
Aikidoka Who needs oil anyways.... Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Baltimore, MD Posts: 1,748 iTrader: (1) Bronco Info: 86 Bronco 351W Aikidokas Garage	Oh I already have a sag. I actually have about three of them. I meant the next rebuild is a sag. I have some POR-15 and am painting engine brakets and I was also going to do the sag pump. So while it's off I figured I just do the seal kit I have on it since I don't know the pumps age.