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Old 08-29-2011, 03:03 AM   #1
Dastad
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Better Brakes for '95

I just spent the weekend rebuilding the brake system on my '95: master cylinder, wheel cylinders, shoes, drums, calipers, pads. The only thing not changed are the rotors which are in spec. I wish i could report improvement; but, AFTER A TEST DRIVE, THE BRAKES STILL SUCK. I am disappointed.

Simply put, I want world class brakes on my bronco. It's too good a vehicle and does too many things right to be plagued with such shitty brakes!

QUESTION: What are "THE BEST" brake upgrades for my '95 Bronco? I'm tired of inconclusive threads. I'd like to hear from somebody who has actually made a change to their bronco brakes that they can report has resulted in a high level of satisfaction.
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Old 08-29-2011, 03:21 AM   #2
Fireguy50
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did you bleed the brakes correctly with the ABS sytem?
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Old 08-29-2011, 05:26 AM   #3
Ewgoetz
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First how are they sucky? Are the spongy? Hard pedal with hard braking? Soft pedal no braking? What is the issue besides that they suck?
Also like fire asked were they bleed correctly? Was the mc bench bleed?

Bleeding order is right rear, left rear, right front, abs unit, left front.
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:54 AM   #4
Dastad
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Started with a dry system after 24 hour gravity bleed. Installed parts as stated. Bled the corners the old fashioned way: right to left Rear, right to left Front, omitting the ABS unit altogether. Maybe I should have read Chilton's or searched a thread, but I thought bleeding was bleeding. So no, I didn't bleed properly. Until I read this, I didn't give the ABS unit a second thought, nor did I bench bleed, nor do I even know how to bench bleed. I'll read up on that.

I expected a little softness till the friction surfaces seated. Now described, I'm slow to feel initial engagement. Everything's soft and spongy. The pedal starts low and goes even deeper with no feedback. Also noticing a little pull to the right on hard application.

Also, my ABS light is on 95% of the time. No brake codes showing on the reader. I'm guessing the sensors are out of adjustment.
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:56 AM   #5
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yo,
FYI & for posterity;
I will address only Ford MC parts.


This is the Optional Upgrade Pad;
Motorcraft BRSD632 Front Severe Duty Pad
Price: $59.96 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping


as shown in Ford Motorcraft® (fordinstallersupport.com) - Brake Parts Catalog, Bronco/Ford truck & all Fords w/Ford Part Numbers & Cross References (96MB pdf file) (http://www.fordinstallersupport.com/...brakeparts.pdf)

see page 274
95 Bronco
Pads - SuperDuty . Notes; D632,I,SM ... Ford MC Part # BRSD-632
Notes;
R = Riveted
I = Integrally Molded
B = Bonded
SM = Semi-Metallic
ORG = Organic
D-Plate numbers for friction parts, Pads & Shoes, are noted within the Qualifier text for easier part identification.
Rotor BRR-56



Pad, Material Safety Data Sheet for "SuperDuty Part Number BRSD-632 for 94-96 Bronco; Miesk5 NOTE; this is not for the SD Model but it is the FORD MC part name
Source: by Ford fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com

===========

Rotor Dimensions, Fluid Specifications & Torque Specifications in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, and Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford
Bronco (Integral)
Minimum Rotor Thickness (Discard Thickness) 24.45 mm - 0.96"
Rotor Thickness Maximum Variation 0.013 mm - 0.0005"
Brake Surface Lateral Runout (Maximum) 0.08 mm - 0.003
Rotor Surface Finish 0-1.6 mm - 0-65 micro"

Bronco (2-Piece)
Minimum Rotor Thickness (Discard Thickness) 24.45 mm - 0.96"
Rotor Thickness Maximum Variation 0.018 mm 0.0007"
Brake Surface Lateral Runout (Maximum) 0.13 mm 0.005 "
Rotor Surface Finish 0-1.6 mm - 0-65 micro"


Whee Lug Torque Specifications 1/2-20 100 Lb-Ft
NOTE: Torque specifications are for clean, dirt- and paint-free, dry bolt and nut threads. Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.
==============


2010 Aftermarket Brake Pad Evaluation, November 2010
Source: by Michigan State Police Precision Driving Unit


(same for 93-96)

Bleeding in a 96 from Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at FSB


============

4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) Bleeding Procedure (DIY)
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB
Significant Excerpts; "... For the longest time, I've felt that my brakes were too soft and not as responsive as they should be. Particularly during emergency stops, when the 4WABS would become active, the pedal would drop to the floor, requiring me to pump the brakes occasionally. After replacing almost all of the brake system components that were faulty and/or worn, the only thing left was to bleed the HCU. I had removed it once from the truck to rebuild the electric motor's brush holder, so I knew there was air in the HCU from that.
Ford has a special tool that goes between the ABS controller and harness, and it has nifty little switches for grounding the appropriate circuits according to the bleed procedure. Taking Ford's HCU bleed procedure, understanding how the system works, and using a few schematics, I've come up with a ghetto way to bleed the HCU, and I confirmed that it does indeed work just as well as the factory-approved method..." Read MORE

Miesk5 Note; Perform this procedure only if the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) has been replaced. Follow conventional bleed procedures if the HCU is not being replaced.
\
...
And the Ford method; "Perform Pressure Bleeding procedure in this section.
Connect Anti-Lock Brake Adapter T90P-50-ALA (bleeder box) and Anti-Lock Brake Adapter T93T-50-ALA (jumper cable).
Press down on the brake pedal and depress the VALVES button on the bleeder box (brake pedal will fall).
Release the VALVES button and release the brake pedal.
Repeat Steps 3 and 4 once more.
Depress the MOTOR START button and let the pump motor run for one minute.
Perform Pressure Bleeding procedure in this section..."

Anti-Lock Brake Adapter (Bleeder Box)
Item Part Number Description
1 T90P-50-ALA Anti-Lock Brake Adapter (Part of T90P-50-ALA)
2 � Bleed/Harness Selector (Part of T90P-50-ALA)
3 � Green MOTOR ON Lamp (Part of T90P-50-ALA)
4 � Red MOTOR OFF Lamp
(Part of T90P-50-ALA)
5 � Valve Button
(Part of T90P-50-ALA)
6 � Abort Button
(Part of T90P-50-ALA)
7 � Motor Start Button
(Part of T90P-50-ALA)


-----------------

Fluid Specifications; "...Use Ford High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or equivalent DOT 3 fluid meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A; CAUTION: Never reuse brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system or has been allowed to stand in an open container for an extended period of time..." in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, and Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford

------------
Brake and Rotor - Service Tips Article No. 97-19-4
LIGHT TRUCK:
1993-96 BRONCO
1993-97 AEROSTAR
1993-98 RANGER, VILLAGER
1995-98 WINDSTAR
1997-98 EXPEDITION

ISSUE: This TSB article is intended to give a technician information regarding brake repairs to help reduce unnecessary repairs. ACTION: Refer to the following list when performing brake repairs. ^ Where rotors are the causal part, linings should only be replaced if they are damaged, e.g., cracked, taper wear, heavily grooved, etc., or if specifically instructed in a TSB.
^ Where linings are the causal part, rotors should not be machined unless they are heavily grooved or if specifically instructed in a TSB.
Other exceptions would include instances where the non-causal parts are found to be below minimum serviceable thickness or if the technician estimates that the parts will not last until the next service interval. Since these parts are classified as wear items (such as: linings, pads, rotors, and drums) replacement is not covered under warranty. OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
OASIS CODES: 301000
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THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
select a LINK, Right Click & Hit Properties; copy the second HTTP address; paste in a new browser window or Tab to see original page
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Old 08-29-2011, 02:02 PM   #6
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Vacuum Boost, Hydro Boost, Electro Boost!!!




But first, clearly you have an issue with the existing system that needs to be addressed. Hydraulic System Bleeding, ABS, Brake Booster, rear wheel cylinder adjustment, Stainless Steel Brake Lines?
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Old 08-29-2011, 03:45 PM   #7
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After I replaced the brakes front and rear including the calipers and wheel cylinders I thought that the brakes could still be better, So I replaced the stock factory rubber flex lines with Earl's Stainless Steel braided brake lines. they only cost about 70 bucks for all 3 and make a big difference in everyday braking and an even bigger difference when you have to "jump on 'em "
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Old 08-29-2011, 04:00 PM   #8
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wow i glade i found this thread cause i'm having the same problem with my 94 thanks guys.
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Old 08-29-2011, 06:43 PM   #9
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There is only one brand of friction material for my truck and that is Performance Friction/Carbon metallic
I have said this before and will say again I am a Ford Truck and Heavy Truck parts guy but I need the stopping ability of the above compond
because where I live folks feel that the gap in traffic is there for them not for me to stop this heavy Suv.

I just replaced a set on my 95 and can say I have twice the stopping distance of the motorcraft standard set that was on (was in a hurry last time).

Since you just installed why not try a little burnish to seat the pads in and see if that helps.
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Old 08-29-2011, 07:33 PM   #10
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I am using the Hawk LTS Ferro-Carbon Brake Pad. Is that the same thing?
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Old 08-30-2011, 05:58 AM   #11
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i'm on autozone pads and i can easily lock up my wheels.. yeah, gotta get my ABS fixed but my 95 stops on a dime.
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Old 08-30-2011, 07:56 AM   #12
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Are the rear breaks adjusted.
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Old 08-30-2011, 09:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle FSB View Post
I am using the Hawk LTS Ferro-Carbon Brake Pad. Is that the same thing?

Looks very simular I do not know much of Wellman or Hawk but thier claims and web site look nice.
I do have experiance with the Cm folks and can say
after testing several different products the Cm worked best for my needs.

I manufactured heavy duty truck brakes at the time of the test and had access
to R&D friction material of different brands to include one of our companys (Grey-Rock).
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Old 08-30-2011, 10:31 PM   #14
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I'm in the same boat. I have a similar thread about the too. I basically did the same thing as you (+bled the abs). Brakes still suck. I need to change the flex hoses and see what happens. Use the diy abs bleed procedure. It works. I tried it last weekend.
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Old 08-30-2011, 11:01 PM   #15
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Pretty sure I read on here somewhere that the thunderbird twin rotors are the best
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Old 09-06-2011, 03:45 PM   #16
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Thanks for the replies. I bled them again and that's gonna have to do for now. Multiple upgrades to brakes definitely on the AGENDA. I'm thinking EBC rotors and pads up front under some version of Hydroboost on a fresh Saginaw pump upgrade with rear discs...just after I win the lottery.
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I thoroughly disapprove of duels... If a man should challenge me, I would take him kindly and forgivingly by the hand and lead him to a quiet retired spot and kill him. -Autobiography of Mark Twain
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasonhughes2009 View Post
Pretty sure I read on here somewhere that the thunderbird twin rotors are the best
thats twin piston calipers, and its for dent side trucks I thought.... Or atleast the older ones, never heard of it being done on 92-96's

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dastad View Post
Thanks for the replies. I bled them again and that's gonna have to do for now. Multiple upgrades to brakes definitely on the AGENDA. I'm thinking EBC rotors and pads up front under some version of Hydroboost on a fresh Saginaw pump upgrade with rear discs...just after I win the lottery.
slotted/drilled rotors seem like a waste to me on these trucks, idk.

Alot of people do the F250/350 master cylinder and brake booster swap for improved stopping power.

After that, rear disc brake conversion....











Just to note, my brakes are all stock stuff and have about 10,000 miles on them, all new brake lines, new fluid, new rotors, pads, drums, and I can lock my 35's up at 70mph... My brakes work just fine
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