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Old 09-17-2010, 08:29 PM   #1
mazda crawler
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profile ignition pickup circuit failure

my buddies 1986 with the efi 300 6 cyl recently died while driving on the freeway and would not start backup again, and this was the description of the code (obd1 code 14). so far we have examined the cap rotor and distributor, and we have tried replacing the tfi module but we havnt found out how to fix it yet. has anyone had any experience with this ? what should i look for ? how can i test the coil to make sure if its working right ? thanks.
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:46 PM   #2
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Does the tachometer jump when you turn the key? If not, it's the stator.

If you have a circuit tester you could test the coil, it should flash brightly and depending on what it does will point you in the area of the problem.
-flash brightly, no spark at coil wire
-light comes on brightly, but doesn't flash
-light stays off or is dim
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Old 09-17-2010, 10:31 PM   #3
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once code 14 turns up you should replace both the TFI and stator.
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Old 09-17-2010, 11:57 PM   #4
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Lightbulb

FordX and Fireguy nailed it.
Loss of PIP signal is caused by a faulty
TFI module and/or stator.
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Old 09-18-2010, 09:12 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordXFord View Post
Does the tachometer jump when you turn the key? If not, it's the stator.

If you have a circuit tester you could test the coil, it should flash brightly and depending on what it does will point you in the area of the problem.
-flash brightly, no spark at coil wire
-light comes on brightly, but doesn't flash
-light stays off or is dim
Follow this, this is how you will find the problem.
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Old 09-18-2010, 04:43 PM   #6
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Bronco Info: 90 5.0 H.O. E4OD BW1356 3.54 3L55 32/11.50R15 Black not the one in the pic ^^^
this is kind of universal but will help to test the PIP and TFI if it is distributor mounted.

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Originally Posted by theramsey3 View Post
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distributor mount TFI module test





to test the coil get out the DMM test the primary circuit for resistance it should be .3-1 ohms test the secondary circuit from the coil negative to the plug wire output resistance should be 8,000 to 11,500 ohms

Test for power at the coil with the key in the run position. Test ignition module output with a test light put the test light between the two wires at the coil harness if it flashes TFI module and PIP are functioning.

Coil primary circuit(see the below picture for TFI module pin out)

to test the coil primary circuit you should have already tested for 12v+ from coil to ground with key in run position now you need to test from TFI pin 2 to coil negative with harnesses disconnected resistance should be less than 5 ohms

next test from coil negative with only the coil harness disconnected to ground should be more than 10,000 ohms.

test power supply to the TFI module by using the chart in


PIP test distributor mounted TFI only
Test for AC voltage from pin 6 of the TFI module with harness connected to negative BATTERY terminal by cranking engine. AC voltage should be 3-8.5 volts

PIP test remote mount TFI only

remote mount module distributor harness


disconnect the distributor harness and test for 12v+ at pin 8 with the key in the run position now disconnect the S terminal at the starter solenoid/relay to disable the starter and turn key to start position test for voltage again. Hook the S terminal back up to the starter solenoid/relay test for AC voltage from pin 1 of the distributor to the negative BATTERY terminal by cranking engine. AC voltage should be between 3-8.5

measure from module pin 6 to distributor pin 1 resistance should be less than 5 ohms and finally measure from pin 6 of the remote TFI module to ground you should get more than 10,000 ohms.
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I was always taught u got to lube it up before you stick it in. My friends said the teacher yesterday said that too.
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Old 09-18-2010, 10:16 PM   #7
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thanks for all the info ill give feedback when i get it fixed
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:56 AM   #8
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FYI, when my TFI went bad, it still passed all those resistance test.
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:44 AM   #9
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Bronco Info: 1986 Bronco XLT 4x4 -AOD -Warn Hubs, NEW stock 302EFI (2008) All MSD ignition, 9mm FMSR wires
Napa usually has a good deal on distributors with both the TFI and PIP for around $130.00 with a 1 yr warranty out the door, Cardone maybe....BUT you can just replace the PIP by itself for less money, you 'll need to pull the distributor out, remove the roll pin and gear and slide the PIP off, it has a collar...reverse for the new one and you're good to go..


Good Luck ~
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Old 09-19-2010, 04:45 PM   #10
theramsey3
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Bronco Info: 90 5.0 H.O. E4OD BW1356 3.54 3L55 32/11.50R15 Black not the one in the pic ^^^
truly the best way to test the TFI is to take it to the parts store of your choice and have them test it 4 or 5 times to get it hot and see if the problem lies in it getting hot and crapping out on you.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ford_munky_man View Post
I was always taught u got to lube it up before you stick it in. My friends said the teacher yesterday said that too.
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Old 09-19-2010, 05:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordXFord View Post
FYI, when my TFI went bad, it still passed all those resistance test.
they usually fail from heat, if you toss it on the table and test it like that above it will usually always pass. Even parts stores can test them and they will pass the first couple of times.
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Old 09-19-2010, 05:14 PM   #12
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Bronco Info: 90 5.0 H.O. E4OD BW1356 3.54 3L55 32/11.50R15 Black not the one in the pic ^^^
thats why I dont stop testing it till it gets hot if it passes 2 or 3 times hot it is usually good
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ford_munky_man View Post
I was always taught u got to lube it up before you stick it in. My friends said the teacher yesterday said that too.
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Old 10-02-2010, 11:28 PM   #13
mazda crawler
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ok so i discovered something new, the little gear that drives the distributor shaft (not sure what its called) doesn't spin when my friend tries to crank the ignition. does anyone have any guess? how would you even get to this part to fix it. he thinks that maybe he get to it from taking the oil pan off, but im not there to actually look at it and see.
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Old 10-03-2010, 12:01 AM   #14
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Bronco Info: 90 5.0 H.O. E4OD BW1356 3.54 3L55 32/11.50R15 Black not the one in the pic ^^^
pull the distributor out and see if the cam shaft is still turning. If it is you probably have a locked up oil pump. Usually when it locks up it will break the roll pin that holds the gear on the dizzy and let the gear turn but wont turn the dizzy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ford_munky_man View Post
I was always taught u got to lube it up before you stick it in. My friends said the teacher yesterday said that too.
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