Steering Box - Marking Pitman Arm

[78wookie]

OK... I know most of you will look at the title and think this has been covered before. I've been doing my research on this for months now.... reading all the threads, determinig which parts to buy, etc. So needless to say, I've searched.

I've read several times that when REBUILDING your steering box, you should mark your Pitman arm location in order to re-install in the same position. I completely understand this. I'm, however, REPLACING my steering box. How do I ensure the Pitman arm is installed (clocked) correctly? Perhaps his is a dumb question and I'm just overlooking something simple.

I am doing the saginaw swap, high pressure hose, and steering box today. Thanks for any help!

[Gacknar]

It's keyed, it will only go on in one way.

[78wookie]

OK... thanks Gacknar.... so then, why would people say in other posts to mark it? Do they not know what they're talking about? Not trying to sound like a jerk.... I thought it would be keyed/failsafed, but only asked this question because of what others wrote. Thanks again.

[Gacknar]

I don't know, maybe it's not keyed on pre '80 models.

Or maybe they are talking about marking the shaft so the key is in the same position in the box on re-assembly.

[Alvin in AZ]

OP, you've been reading too much silly stuff. ;)
Do yourself a favor and get a set of Ford Truck Shop Manuals for your truck.
Mark the edges of the pages, write notes in 'em, prob'ly outlast the truck. :)

What all does need marking tho?
-driveshaft stuff
-Ford9inch bearing caps
-engine internals or kept in order
-paint a stripe down one leaf pack before re-arching 'em

What else? :)

Alvin in AZ
ps- Gack, my '75 "Ford Integral" is indexed. :)

[2bet]

I'm also working on rebuilding my box and PS swap.

If my understanding is correct, there is only one way to joint the box to the rag joint (steering coloumn) and 4 ways to connect the pitman arm to the box.
Here are some pics, hopefully it helps.

This part connects to the rag joint

Below is where the box and the pitman arm joint



Someone correct me if i wrong please.

Good luck....lets try and get this done by this weekend.

[leytina]

^^^excellant support for the uninitiated,nice pics.^^^

[78wookie]

Thanks for the pics 2Bet.

I know this may have seemed like a silly question... guess that's why it was moved to the noobie forum. It's not my first rodeo, so to speak, but The Bronco is my daily driver, and I always read up before doing any job that could leave me stranded/paying a tow bill. Worked on fox bodies and SN95's quite a bit, but the truck has different things, like pitman arms, that I haven't had to deal with.

Thanks for all the comments, especially the pics.

[Alvin in AZ]

Originally Posted by leytina

^^^excellant support for the uninitiated,nice pics.^^^

x2 :)

One thing that can be upside down is the steering wheel because
the flex coupling's (rag joint) -stub- can go two ways.

The parts truck's upper most splines (company truck) had a few
mashed teeth where the company mechanic shoved it on right
side-up anyway. LOL :)

That column is now in my Bronco. :) Dremeled-off the mashed
teeth to make it go on easy either way. So, it's "bi" now. ;)

Alvin in AZ

[2bet]

Based on what i read...
1)keep the steering wheel and wheels straight before you remove the box from the rag joint
2)remove pitman arm from center link (try using a pitman arm removal kit rather than a pickle fork as a pickle fork will damage the grease boot and you will have to replace the whole center link as they don't sell just the boot)
3)remove the pitman arm from box (removal kit).

Good luck.

[78wookie]

Ok. I'm done. Was not bad at all. The research up front paid off, as always. I completed this job without having to even remove the pitman arm from the steering linkage. Separated box from pitman arm then replaced the box centered everything back up and maneuvered the pitman arm back in place.

Replaced the ps pump with a Saginaw from advance. The pump was for an econoline van. I used a bracket from the pull-a-part. High pressure hose from the econoline. Everything went back together flawlessly.


Thanks for the help an pics.

[78wookie]

Well.... Now I have another issue. When turning the steering wheel at idle, it feels like a knocking or rough feedback in steering wheel. Not bad, just not silky smooth like before. When I rev the motor to approx 2k rpm, the gritty feedback goes away. I ended up using the pulley off the econoline van because it was metal, but it was the same size as the bronco's. I flushed the gear box and lines when installed with new ps fluid. So I had a couple theories, but not sure what it could be.

Theory 1: the fluid I used was Valvoline. It said "meets Ford spec xyz" along with gm and Chrysler specs as well. I distinctly remember reading on here somewhere that we should use automatic transmission fluid. Searched and codnt find this again. The old fluid was red, so that's why I was thinking of this. So the theory would be that the power steering fluid does not provide enough of q hydraulic effect at low engine speeds.

Theory 2: my truck has 33's. Maybe the pump is spinning at too slow of an rpm to create the adequate pressure a idle. Solution would then be smaller pulley. I fond this hard to believe because the stock pump turned them fine, and without this grinding ratchety feel.

Theory 3: bad steering gear or bad pump. Read of failures others have experienced with the remanufctd pumps. Really hoping this isn't the case.

Theory 4: air in system. I worked the wheel several times but the info that came with the pump and the steering gear said specifically that some ford pumps are hard to evacuate air from and may require a special tool.

Oh... Forgot to mention I didn't notice this issue until the test drive. It didnt do it on initial startup. So what do you guys think?

[78wookie]

Bump

[78wookie]

Bump.

Need help here. To me, the simplest most likely possibility is air in the system, but I don't know how else to remove it other than turning wheel side ti side.

[2bet]

Wish i can help bro, my steering project just escalate into a center link replacement .

Here is a bump yo