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Old 02-27-2010, 04:46 PM   #1
willet
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Removing Evaporator/Heater Core/Blower motor box?

Finally got my Bronco stripped down of all the wrecked parts, ready to put in the new axle and steering gear, when something caught my eye. The truck took a bad hit on the passenger side, which I assume pushed the inner liner up into the whole AC box thing, cracking it. Never paid it much mind until today. The whole thing needs to be replaced, Chiltons doesn't even cover it, any tips on how to take this thing out? Will I need to discharge AC? I'm not switching out AC parts, just need to replace the black box under the hood.
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Old 03-05-2010, 09:35 AM   #2
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So has nobody removed this under the hood box? I'm wanting to try and do it today and any tips would be greatly appreciated. Else I plan on going at the broken one until it falls out so I can see how to do it right... :)
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Old 03-05-2010, 09:39 AM   #3
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I would have to look under the hood of my truck to know what youre even talking about. If there are a/c lines running to it, you will most likely need to discharge the a/c unless you wanna get high on refrigerant
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Old 03-05-2010, 10:33 AM   #4
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As Steve83 wrote; The entire A/C refrigerant system can be removed as a unit from all '80-96 gasoline (& probably diesel) F-series & Broncos without much trouble.
... But no coolant, refrigerant, or other fluid lines have to be opened.

Cover Pic in 96 Bronco. Fits all 92-96 F-Series & Bronco
Source: by Steve83
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Old 03-05-2010, 10:53 AM   #5
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Housing Removal & Installation in a 87-88 & 89-96 (under license from Delmar Publishers, comb of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar & Haynes); some may be incorrect, as reported by Seabronc, thanks Seabronc! NEW SITE URL!!! MUST REGISTER TO VIEW; select year, make, model, engine size and go to appropriate section

Evaporator Core Housing REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
I would skip da parts that say to discharge da system since Steve knows more than the NEW tech "writers" @ Chilton/etc...

1.Discharge the refrigerant system using a certified recycling/recovery station

2.Disconnect the vacuum supply hose at the dash panel. Position the check valve (this is da Vacuum Check Valve shown in Steve's Diagram, below - (Vacuum Diagram in 92-96)[/) away from the case. See the same diagram below by Steve (Vacuum Diagram in 92-96)

3.Using a quick-disconnect coupling tool, disconnect the liquid line at the evaporator core. Cap all openings at once!
4.Using a back-up wrench, disconnect the suction line at the accumulator. Cap all openings at once!
5.Drain the cooling system. Miesk5 Note; drain a little until hoses are relatively frr of coolant; may as well replace both anyway

6.Disconnect the heater hoses at the core. I split em there with a sharp knife/razor so I don't frig up da core tubing esp since I replace those hoses anyway.

7.Working in the passenger's compartment, remove the 2 screws or nuts attaching the bottom of the case to the dash panel. One screw also secures the lower edge of the plenum.
8.Disconnect the vacuum and wiring harnesses located at the right end of the plenum.
9.Remove the 2 screws attaching the right side of the recirc duct to the dash panel.
10.Remove the 2 nuts attaching the evaporator case and recirc duct to the dash panel.
11.Pull the evaporator case and recirc duct forward and out of the truck
SEE Steve's pics (in my post above) of the cover for an idea of the screw holes..etc.
To install:

12.Position the case assembly in the truck and install the screws and nuts attaching it to the dash panel.
13.Connect the vacuum and wiring harnesses.
14.Using new O-rings coated with clean refrigerant oil, connect the refrigerant lines. Tighten the suction line, using a back-up wrench, to 28-33 ft. lbs. (38-45 Nm).
15.Connect the heater hoses.
16.Fill the cooling system.
17.Evacuate, charge and leak test the refrigerant system (refer to ).

A detailed Diagram;

#10 19850 Evaporator Assembly
Item Part Number Description
1 56956-S2 Screw and Washer Assembly
2 N621906-S2 Nut
3 45261-S2 J-Nut
4 18471 Chamber Assembly, Plenum
5 56950-S2 Screw, Washer Head
6 — Vacuum Hose (Part of Vacuum Harness)
7 18C433 Duct Assembly
8 01610 Dash Panel
9 N801696-S2 Nut (As Required)
10 19850 Evaporator Assembly (All)
11 12A581 Wiring Assembly (All Engines Except 7.3L Diesel Engine Without E4OD Automatic Transmission)
12 18A586 Wiring Assembly
13 18D306 Cable Assembly (Temperature) Blue End
14 — Vacuum Tubes (Part of 18A586)
15 — Install Locator in Hole in Bracket
16 N803946-S Rivet, Blind Truss Head
17 N621906-S2 Nut
18 N803912-S2 Stud
19 14401 Wiring Assembly
20 — To 19980 Control
21 M4G195 Sealer
22 9F479 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor and Bracket Assembly
23 — To Right Anti-Lock Brake System Sensor Connector (Bronco Only)
24 19E746 Clip, A/C Tube Lock Coupling
25 — Locator (Part of 14401)
A — Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 Lb-In)
B — Tighten to 2-4 Nm (18-35 Lb-In)
C — Part Number Location on Cable
D — Install in Hole Provided
-----
Vacuum Diagram in 92-96; "...'80-91 similar, except '87-early '88 w/factory air..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

"The diagram is a schematic, so it's not to scale, or from any particular perspective. The horizontal line thru the lower diagram that says "Dash Panel" is actually the firewall, so it's sort of veiwed as if you were standing on the dash up thru the windshield looking straight down. Above the line is under the hood; below the line is inside the dash. But all the vacuum lines that come from above are actually inside the dash, ... The dotted lines are mechanical connections; the one from "Temperature Control Lever" is the cable. The others are bellcrank levers sticking up thru the duct housing that the vacuum motors pull/push on..." by Steve

Control Diagrams & Overview in 92-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
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Last edited by miesk5; 03-05-2010 at 11:00 AM. Reason: spAllAng
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Old 03-05-2010, 11:08 AM   #6
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Holy crap that's awesome! I must have missed that on Steve83's site. Thanks so much!
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Old 03-05-2010, 05:39 PM   #7
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Thanks to miesk5, just got done taking the old box out of the Bronco, no problems at all. The condenser can come out as one unit, no need to discharge system. Sunday I get to take the parts one out and put it in. Maybe a 2 hour job, after taking off the fender.
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:29 PM   #8
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ok!

Thanks to Steve!

Can you snap some pics?
& Post em up here if you have time and a cam.

btw, that one image w/the parts list; #10 19850 Evaporator Assembly was from thedieselstop.com
There were more diagrams and some pics in diesel-central.com but that site was Hacked to death in late DEC 2009 and has not gotten back on-line; and the HOST's comp complex was also ruined; the company is prob out-of-business now.
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my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
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Old 03-06-2010, 07:06 AM   #9
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Sure thing. I'll do a little write up and such tomorrow, since I'll be taking out the good one and not just ripping pieces off the firewall... :) And I'll have an extra hand.
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Old 07-13-2010, 07:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willet View Post
Thanks to miesk5, just got done taking the old box out of the Bronco, no problems at all. The condenser can come out as one unit, no need to discharge system. Sunday I get to take the parts one out and put it in. Maybe a 2 hour job, after taking off the fender.
Just want to make sure I am not missing something; Does anyone have a creative way to remove the bolt on the bottom of the evaporator core without removing the fender or would I just waste more time trying to get the bolt off when I could have just taken off the fender? TIA
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Old 07-13-2010, 08:43 PM   #11
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Post pix when you are done ! I can barely get my hand to the transmission dipstick sa it is, this box is a gonner. Does the heater core function stay the same or do I need to make a cover plate ?
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Old 04-28-2011, 03:26 AM   #12
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Nice! Thanks miesk5 for sharing it. Thought I would have to bring my car to a mechanic. Glad you shared it. I suppose the problem for me is the evaporator of my A/C. Maybe I would need to replace it to a new one.
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:49 AM   #13
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yo Keith,
Welcome!
What is wrong?

Also state year, engine, etc.
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my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:53 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by 351w500 View Post
Post pix when you are done ! I can barely get my hand to the transmission dipstick sa it is, this box is a gonner. Does the heater core function stay the same or do I need to make a cover plate ?
Switch to the non a/c box like i did, it frees up some room in that corner.

I dont have a great pic, but this might help. Lots of room over there now.
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Old 11-30-2013, 05:40 PM   #15
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Bringing this one back... Where does one purchase a non heater box (plenum?)
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:13 PM   #16
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Junk yard is going to be the best place. I think there may be some "Parting out," guys in the classifieds, though. Maybe they already have it pulled and can save you some time.
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Old 12-11-2013, 10:37 AM   #17
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Heating/ AC question

Recently im a new owner of a 1990 Bronco. She has a 5.8L 351 V8. The question i have if anyone is willing to give me some advice; I understand that alot of older model trucks need time to heat up, but the issue im having is that my heater doesnt blow very much hot air. Especially now that its super cold out I need to figure out how to get it to blow more hot air. Especially since i have three yard rats that ride with me i hate having them to bundle up more just because my heat is not "hot". Is this a heater core problem? Any tips and or advice is greatly appreciated!!! PS: Love the info on this tread!!!
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:57 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BR0NC0K1D View Post
Recently im a new owner of a 1990 Bronco. She has a 5.8L 351 V8. The question i have if anyone is willing to give me some advice; I understand that alot of older model trucks need time to heat up, but the issue im having is that my heater doesnt blow very much hot air. Especially now that its super cold out I need to figure out how to get it to blow more hot air. Especially since i have three yard rats that ride with me i hate having them to bundle up more just because my heat is not "hot". Is this a heater core problem? Any tips and or advice is greatly appreciated!!! PS: Love the info on this tread!!!
How about a little more info than "it doesn't blow much hot air...". Does the blower motor blow good air but it isn't warm, or does the blower not blow well? Does the blower operate at all speeds? Does the air go to the correct outlets when switched with the controls? Does the air shift by itself w/ acceleration? Where is the engine temp in the gauge? Does it run cool, warm, hot...? Is the coolant full, and what's in it? Does the blend door move freely from one end of its range to the other?

Data, data, data... There's never such a thing as too much information, but there's for damn sure such a thing as too little.

Easy start: Answer the questions above, then feel the two heater hoses under the hood that go to the heater core (at the firewall)- they should both be hot to the touch when the engine is fully warmed up (best to check after a short drive).

Let us know what you find.



And I know this is from an old post, but before I go I just have to comment on this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by miesk5 View Post
...since Steve knows more than the NEW tech "writers" @ Chilton/etc...
Here's the comment I promised...
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Quote:
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Is he STILL arguing this? I put him on my ignore list years ago, so I don't have to read his ranting.
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Years? He's only been here since February of this year.
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87Rougneck knows his shit, even though he can be a dick. I'd listen to him.
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:20 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BR0NC0K1D View Post
Recently im a new owner of a 1990 Bronco. She has a 5.8L 351 V8. The question i have if anyone is willing to give me some advice; I understand that alot of older model trucks need time to heat up, but the issue im having is that my heater doesnt blow very much hot air. Especially now that its super cold out I need to figure out how to get it to blow more hot air. Especially since i have three yard rats that ride with me i hate having them to bundle up more just because my heat is not "hot". Is this a heater core problem? Any tips and or advice is greatly appreciated!!! PS: Love the info on this tread!!!
yo!,
As 87 advised...
Until we get more info;
More Heat; "...the 87-91 trucks with factory A/C have a recirculation door in their HVAC system, it's there to cut off outside air and keep running only in-cab air through the blower. It's vacuum controlled, and only cuts outside air when you put the control lever to off or max A/C. The problem I see with this is when you have 15F ambient temperature with some -20 windchill, heating up that air good could be a challenge for a truck with an aging heater core or tired blower fan. Last year just to see how much of difference it actually makes I zip-tied my recirculation door closed, thus running inside air through the HVAC system all winter long - things got real warm real quick, noticeable improvement even when truck is stationary. For the warmer days tho I want the recirculation door open so I can get fresh air in the cab as I drive... So I devised and implemented a solution in my 90 truck - I now have a manually controlled recirculation door that I can open and close to my liking, which means I can get tons of heat in the winter even with some nasty ambient temperatures..." http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165079
Source: by M.L.S.C. at FSB


Poor Heater/Defroster Performance in Engine Coolant Concerns TSB 93-24-08 for 84-94 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Econoline & many others;
Insufficient heat inside of vehicles equipped with or without air conditioning may be caused by the heater air baffle missing from the plenum chamber. The heater air baffle prevents cold air from leaking in around the heater core.

ACTION: To correct this, check to see if the heater air baffle is present. If the heater air baffle is not present, install a heater air baffle using the following service procedure.

READ MORE


Heater Core Failure, Repeated TSB 01-15-06 for 85-96
Lack of Heat, Temperature Blend Door Cam Spring Does Not Blend Door to Seat Properly TSB 92-4-13 for Vehicles Built Prior to 11/11/91, 92 Bronco & F Series & F-47
ISSUE: Some vehicles may exhibit (repeat) heater core leaks. This may be caused by a chemical reaction called electrolysis. Electrolysis involves an ion exchange between the heater core and engine coolant which can result in a breakdown of the heater core material. This is similar to the operation of a battery.
ACTION: Check for electrolysis on any vehicle with a heater core failure. If electrolysis is verified, flush the coolant and follow additional steps as required. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Electrolysis Inspection
If there is a condition of a heater core leaking or repeat heater core leak, check for electrolysis using the following procedure:
To check for electrolysis use a DVOM set on DC volts. Place the positive probe of the meter in the engine coolant and the negative probe on the negative battery post.
Adjust engine throttle to 2000 RPM to properly get coolant flow and true electrolysis voltages.
If more than .4V is recorded, flush the
NOTE: EXPORT MARKETS, BE SURE THE WATER IS DESALINATED.

If there is still excessive voltage present in the coolant, check the engine body/battery grounds. Also, verify proper grounding of any aftermarket electrical/electronic equipment which has been installed into the vehicle. Improperly grounded electrical devices can cause electrolysis to occur.
If the condition is still present after the grounds have been checked, it may be necessary to add extra grounds to the heater core and engine. A hose clamp can be used to secure a 16 AWG stranded copper wire to the heater core inlet tube. The other end should be secured to an EXISTING FASTENER on the body sheet metal. Extra grounds to the engine should be attached between EXISTING FASTENERS on the engine and body sheet metal. Verify continuity of any added grounds to the negative battery terminal.
If the condition is still present, add a restrictor (part F1UZ-18D406-A) on the inlet hose with the arrow facing the direction of coolant flow (toward heater core). Cut the line and install with 2 hose clamps. It is important that the restrictor be installed in the right direction of flow and as close to the engine block as possible (not near the heater core itself.)
Coolant Fill Procedure
At times, in order to completely remove any trapped air in the cooling system of vehicles equipped with 4.6/5.4/6.8L modular engines, it may be necessary to use the following procedures:
Disconnect the heater hose at the right front or rear of the engine.
Remove the thermostat and housing.
Using the thermostat opening, carefully fill the engine with the proper clean coolant mixture until observed at the engine side heater hose connection.
Reconnect the heater hose and reinstall the thermostat and housing.
Fill the degas bottle to the coolant fill level mark.
Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperatures.
Select max heat and max blower speed on the climate system.
NOTE: IF THE HEAT OUTPUT IS INSUFFICIENT, OR THE ENGINE DOES NOT REACH NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURES, VERIFY PROPER THERMOSTAT OPERATION AND REPEAT PROCEDURE IF REQUIRED.


PART NUMBER PART NAME
F1UZ-18D406-A Restrictor


---------
from 93 - 96 Ford Workshop Manuals; similar to your year;
Insufficient, Erratic, or No Heat or Defrost
Low radiator coolant level due to coolant leaks.
CHECK radiator cap pressure. REPLACE if below minimum pressure. FILL to specified coolant level. Pressure TEST for engine cooling system and heater system leaks. SERVICE as required.

Engine overheating.
REMOVE bugs, leaves, etc. from radiator or condenser fins.
CHECK for: Loose drive belt (8620)
Sticking thermostat
Incorrect ignition timing
Water pump impeller damage
Restricted cooling system
SERVICE as required.

Loose drive belt.
REPLACE drive belt if cracked or worn and ADJUST belt tension.

Thermostat.
FEEL heater water hoses (18472). If the heater water hoses are too hot to hold, the thermostat is OK. If the heater water hoses do not get too hot to hold, REPLACE the thermostat. If only one heater water hose gets hot while the other remains cool, a plugged heater water hose or a plugged heater core (18476) is indicated. REFER to Group 03.

Plugged or partially plugged heater core.
CLEAN and BACKFLUSH engine cooling system and heater core.

Loose or improperly adjusted control cables.
ADJUST to specifications.

Kinked, clogged, collapsed, soft, swollen, or decomposed engine cooling system or heater system heater water hoses.
REPLACE damaged hoses and BACKFLUSH engine cooling system, then heater system, until all particles have been removed.

Blocked air inlet.
CHECK cowl air inlet for leaves, foreign material, etc. REMOVE as required. CHECK internal blower inlet screen (on vehicles so equipped) for leaves and foreign material. GO to Pinpoint Test F .

Blower Motor (18527) Does Not Operate Properly. Check Fuse
Blower motor.
CONNECT a No. 10 gauge (or larger diameter) jumper wire directly from the positive battery terminal to the positive lead of the blower motor. If the blower motor runs, the concern must be external to the blower motor. If the blower motor will not run, connect a No. 10 gauge (or larger diameter) jumper wire from the ground lead to a good ground. If the blower motor runs, the trouble is in the ground circuit. On vehicles with ground side switching, CHECK the heater blower motor switch resistor (18591), the heater blower motor switch (18578) and the harness connections. SERVICE as required. If blower motor still will not run, the blower motor is inoperative and should be replaced.

Heater blower motor switch resistor.
CHECK continuity of resistors for opens or shorts with a self-powered test lamp. SERVICE or REPLACE as required.

Wire harness to blower motor.
CHECK for proper installation of harness connector terminal connectors. CHECK wire-to-terminal continuity. CHECK continuity of wires in harness for shorts, opens, abrasions, etc. SERVICE as required.

Heater blower motor switch.
CHECK heater blower motor switch for proper contact. REPLACE heater blower motor switch as required. GO toPinpoint Test C .

Vacuum System
Vacuum leak.
Loose or disconnected vacuum hose.
Damaged vacuum control motor (18A318).
Misrouted vacuum connections.
REPAIR or REPLACE system components as required.



Blend door operation, Check blend door for binding and proper operation; Mode door operation. Check mode door for binding and proper operation. Blower fan operation, Check blower fan for proper operation and control. Heater core plugged, Flush cooling system. Coolant level, Check level in radiator and coolant recovery reservoir. Leakage, Check for leaks using pressure test. Thermostat operation, Check Thermostat. Refer to "Thermostat Diagnosis" procedure.
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my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
select a LINK, Right Click & Hit Properties; copy the second HTTP address; paste in a new browser window or Tab to see original page
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:26 PM   #20
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VERY USEFUL! Thank you very much!!!
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