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Built to Chase (a slow moving Go Fast build)

28K views 79 replies 25 participants last post by  1987F150 
#1 · (Edited)
I am in the process of installing a 351w/418 stroker with a Saginaw Power Steering Pump (E150 Bracket) and York OBA system. I am also swapping in an E4OD/twin stick NP205 (Edit: Now using a BW1356 due to clearance issues). This is in an 87 F150 (reg cab short bed) that started with a 300 l6 and 2wd C6. This site has helped me with a lot of the research I have been doing (my eyes feel like they have been bleeding from staring at the screen so much).

I purchased this engine off craigs list. It was listed as being rebuilt with low miles, with the short block built by Speed-O-Motive with forged internals. I was given all of the receipts by the original owner (after the purchase). Once I started looking up all the parts I soon realized what I had. Man was I surprised when I did the math and came up with 418ci:santa Mixed in the receipts were the results from the chassis dyno. It put 257hp and 344tq to the rear wheels with what looks to be a stock top end and stock exhaust manifolds. (I will be very curious to see what the dyno results show this time, from what I have read these #'s seem a little high for what it is.)

Engine specs:
Speed-O-Motive forged-stroker-kit http://www.speedomotive.com/p-107-351w-to-418cid-all-forged-stroker-kit.aspx#KitInPostBack
Probe SRS Race Series Forged Poistons .030 over http://www.probeindustries.com/Ford_408_418W_22_0cc_Reverse_Dome_SRS_Pistons_p/10674.htm
Comp Cams 35-255-5 Speed Density Grind (Yes, I am keeping it Speed Density) http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=889&sb=2
24lb injectors (Blue Tops, 2nd generation EV1’s with 4 holes each from a 460)
Holley Adjustable Fuel Regulator http://www.holley.com/512-500-1.asp
ford Racing 9mm Spark Plug Wires http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=2556
MSD Cap and Rotor (Black) http://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/part_number=5505/424.0.0.0.0.0.0
Accell 48,000v Coil http://store.prestoliteperformance....ccessories/ford-1984-98-eec-iv-supercoil.html
Stock Fuel Rail
Stock Intake and throttle body

Headman Long Tube Headers, Not sure if they will work yet. (they were free so why not try)
Flowmaster Collector dual 2.5” into a single 3”
I will have Muffler Master in Glendale, AZ put the exhaust together with a Magnaflow Cat and Muffler dumping it right before the rear passenger tire.


This combination will be tuned by Shelby Motorsports in Las Vegas once it is ready.

The 4x4 front end will be going in at some point? Not sure how soon my wallet or marriage will allow that though.

I am pretty sure I am going with an E4OD built by Henderson Transmission in Henderson, Nevada. They do the C6 for the Class 8 race truck that I help with. (Best in the Desert Race Series) I have not ordered it yet, although I am installing the wire harness for it and will be picking up the computer to match once I find one.


This picture is from about 5 years ago when the paint was new. :rockon

 
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#4 ·
Nice! We need more pictures. If you change your mind and want to switch to Mass Air let me know.I have a mustang Mass Air 5.0 5-speed ECM,layover (NEW) RJM harness,and 80mm mustang cobra MAF meter for 24Lb. injectors.300 bucks for it all.Anyway looking good. need engine bay pics too.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the heads up Mark.
I just decided to use the E4OD. I will check into that. I was using a C6 but really wanted the OD since I drive the truck on the highway quite a bit. Maybe I will end up using the 1356 and get a better low range ratio? I have a 1356 but it has a broken case and I would have to find a new one.
 
#9 ·
Thanks to mkiefer (Mark of SouthWest Performance) I have figured out that the NP205 is doable. (with quite a bit of custom work) but why try to reinvent the wheel? I will be using the BW1356. I need to find a cheap one or a new case for mine.

mkiefer you have a PM sir.

Dustin
 
#10 ·
Sorry for the lack of pictures. Really, who starts a build thread and posts 1 picture that is 5 years old) :smilie_slap

There has been a slight change of plans. Due to some unforseen medical bills (my wife and daughter both ended up in the hospital on the same day for unrelated issues, they are OK now though:thumbup) I will be using a C6 that I already have. I should be picking up a torque convertor and cooler for it soon. I am trying to decide if I should use the NP205 that I already have or get the Bronco BW 1356 with the fixed yokes since that is what I will be using with the E4OD eventually. The C6 also has a higher first gear so it would help in the slow stuff.

A good friend of mine is working on a set of D44 beams for me as well. :rockon

I will try to get pictures this weekend.
 
#12 ·
based on my research (from FireGuy's site), any of these computers should work right? I am going to have it tuned, is one better than the other or can i pick up what ever I find first?

A0C2 5.8 Bronco, F-x50 E-x50 SD-Bank / E4OD
Ban1 5.8 Bronco, F-x50 E-x50 SD-Bank / E4OD
C2S2 5.8 Bronco, F-x50 E-x50 SD-Bank / E4OD
C9S1 5.8 Bronco, F-x50 E-x50 SD-Bank / E4OD
E0D 5.8 Bronco, F-x50 E-x50 SD-Bank / E4OD
JAG2 5.8 Bronco, F-x50 E-x50 SD-Bank / E4OD
S0M 5.8 Bronco, F-x50 E-x50 SD-Bank / E4OD
X2Z2 5.8 Bronco, F-x50 E-x50 SD-Bank / E4OD


It is going with a 351W/418 stroker with an E40d (for now a C6) with a harness from an 91 F250.
Any help is appreciated. I am going to try to get the computer by this thursday so I can have a "Startup chip" made while I am in Vegas for the race this weekend. Would a Lightning computer be interchangable with that harness? If so would there be any advantage using one?

C3P1 5.8 93-95 Lightning SD-Bank / E4OD / F3TF-12A650-AB
C3P2 5.8 93-95 Lightning SD-Bank / E4OD / F3TF-12A650-AC
C3P3 5.8 93-95 Lightning SD-Bank / E4OD / F3TF-12A650-AD
ICY1 5.8 93-95 Lightning SD-Bank / E4OD / F5TF-12A650-XB
 
#16 ·
I have a BW1356 with slip yoke, you can swap the output shaft from your current case as long as that's not what's broken. It's yours if you pay for shipping or come to denver to get it... can possibly drop it down in pueblo, CO if needed.
 
#17 ·
fire bronco, Thanks for the offer:rockon, PM me your address and I will see what shipping will cost and let you know.

I cut some parts out for the beams this weekend but did not have a camera with me. I will post pics after I get back from the race. I always come back motivated to work on the truck.

Does anyone know where I can get a deal on a Lightning computer that will work for my application or if it is even needed? I will try to call Shelby Motorsports tomorrow to see what they say as well.
:popc1:
 
#18 ·
We took first for class 8 in the Silverstate 300! :rockon Started last off the line with 8 trucks in our class.

I rebuilt and installed the 24# injectors and the fuel rails with the adjustable fuel regulator (Broke off a bolt in the manifold in the process :cry )
 
#20 ·
Progress has been slow. I have painted up a few brackets, sand blasted and painted the headers and started researching the option of using D50 beam ends on my 4x4 beams I am extending and going with maybe a 10.25 rear already set up for VSS. lots more research to do.... :popc1:
 
#22 ·
Slacker

I will try to get some pictures tomorrow evening. I cleaned out the entire garage today so my wife can park in it since it is getting hot again. I dug out the broken transfer case and put it on the workbench next to the new one. Now I just need the tear them both apart and swap the fixed yoke onto the new one.
 
#23 ·
I just picked up a 94 sterling 10.25 with 4.10 gears and factory LS! I am still looking for D50 TTB housings to cut up and use to build a hybrid front end out of. I might have a deal worked out on 8 lug rims and 37's.:rockon

Wednesday I ordered my E4OD and should be able to pick it up in mid august after the Vegas to Reno Best in the Desert race.

It is starting to feel like a real truck again!
 
#24 ·
I made a lot of progress in the last couple of weeks! Unfortunately it is because I totaled my car:duh I think i am going to use the truck as a daily driver again.

I am having a hard time finding a 7 or 8 tooth speedometer drive gear that goes in the trasnsfer case though (I called about 20 different companies today). Does anyone know where to find one or have an extra one they want to sell?

Engine, trans and transfercase are in now and my to do list fits on one page!:rockon
 
#25 ·
Got some pics!

I finally took some pictures!

Here is the trans tunnel. I added the cover from a Bronco (I even reused the threaded clips to mount it with) I also had to cut the hole for the transfer case shifter. There was not an outline where it should be or a cover glued on like the bronco's have so I had to make my own template.



I added the dash bezel from a truck with the E4OD about 6 years ago when put this truck together. That switch is for the Auburn ECTED lim slip/selectable locker in the 8.8 (hopefully soon to be swapped out for the Sterling 10.25 sitting in my garage) I hated the Wood Grain trim:barf so I painted it flat black. I also painted the dash black while I was at it. I used the same paint for dash and the trim pieces and they came out very different in color. I used Krylon flat black that was made to be used on plastic. I had Black door panels from LMC, they completely fell apart and were a waste of $.





I added 6X9's to the doors where the map pockets use to be. Being a regular cab truck there is not a lot of room to add speakers. This made a major improvement to the sound system. I also made a speaker box to house an amp and two 10" subs behind the seat.



I moved the factory trans cooler down lower and routed the power steering lines through it. I added a larger factory trans cooler to the original location and a larger aftermarket cooler next to it.



Here is the Saginaw pump with the E250 van bracket.



I added the E4OD crossmember. (the truck originally had a C6)



This is the driver side of the crossmember. I have dual gas tanks and a diverter valve for them that sits where the crossmember bracket that goes to the top of the frame is. I had to do a little massaging moving things 1/4" here or there. The diverter is now protected by this bracket.



There was not a whole lot of room between the front gas tank and the Transfer case. I had to take the plastic rock guard off the tank and bend the lip of the tank back a bit. Eventually this tank will probalby be eliminated for a 4 link of some sort. This should work for now though. There is more room than it looks like in the picture.





This was the temporary solution to securing the core support and accessories 6 years ago. I had it bolted together for a few weeks until a friend of mine could throw some weld on it. It has held together so far so I have not changed it. :toothless

on the drivers side:
The factory air box, Coolant overflow/Washer fluid tank (all mounted higher than the factory location), Hood spring and Cruise control are all mounted in factory locatins reusing factory hardware.







on the passenger side:
The solenoid, battery box and hood spring are also mounted in the factory locations reusing factory hardware.





I also needed the wire harness flipped so the wires headed up instead of down. I simply added a notch to the hole in the firewall that duplicated the one that was already there for the round plug. (the original one is at the 5 o'clock position, the new one is at the 1 o'clock position). It looks like the computer can simply be flipped over and installed upside down. By doing this it gives me much more clearence for my tires.



It's amazing how much easier it is to work on when you mount a set of 31's on the front instead of 35's! :toothless



Thanks for lookin,

Dustin
 
#26 ·
Dont you just love dealing with wiring.Ugggghhh. Hate it.Look so forward to cleaning up my wiring once I ditch the stock ECM and injection for the FAST Ez Efi setup I have.Thanks for finally sharing some new pics for us.I know you got your hands full lol.take care Dustin.
 
#27 ·
This wiring is killing me:banghead. I have had to pull parts of the harness from 3 different trucks so far. Needless to say, some of the plugs do not match up. :brownbag


I only resorted to this after 3 seperate trips and I think 11 different junk yards.

Anyone with a knack for this wiring thing in AZ feel free to let me know when you are available!
I will post up pics of what I am trying to sort out once I have a better handle on exactly what it is.:toothless

Dustin
 
#30 ·
I pulled a wire harness from a 91 f250 last weekend. It was the only complete harness I have been able to find. Now my issue is that the fuel delivery system changed in 91 :doh0715: They started using high pressure pumps in the tank instead of low pressure in the tanks the a high pressure pump on the frame rail.

I need to add a plug for the high pressure pump on my frame rail. I started a thread in the Noooooby section to try to get help with this as well.

Does anyone know how I should add in the new plug to the system? It only has 2 wires. I was thinking that I could tap into the fuel pump wiring before the tank selector switch on my dash(dual tanks)? I am not sure if that would put too much stress on that circuit though..........

Any help with this is greatly appreciated.
 
#31 ·
I also needed the wire harness flipped so the wires headed up instead of down. I simply added a notch to the hole in the firewall that duplicated the one that was already there for the round plug. (the original one is at the 5 o'clock position, the new one is at the 1 o'clock position). It looks like the computer can simply be flipped over and installed upside down. By doing this it gives me much more clearence for my tires.



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I like what you did here, and had a newb question... How did you get the wires out of the plug in the picture above? I didn't want to use too much pressure in twisting this plug because mine is from a 87, and I was worried I might damage it... Did you just remove the wires one by one?
Thanks
B
 
#32 ·
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I like what you did here, and had a newb question... How did you get the wires out of the plug in the picture above? I didn't want to use too much pressure in twisting this plug because mine is from a 87, and I was worried I might damage it... Did you just remove the wires one by one?
Thanks
B
This is actually a 2 piece plug that has a 10MM bolt holding it together. You can get to the bolt from the engine bay. Here is a picture to help show what I am talking about. You will see 2 plugs from different year harnesses in the picture. One has a plastic cap on it making the bolt very visible. The one from my 87 is the one without the cap. You might have to pull the wires apart in order to see the bolt in the middle of yours. The previous picture you quoted is the other side of the plug that is connected to the wires going to the dash harness.

 
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