http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum Ford bronco discussion forum en Wed, 19 Jun 2013 11:47:10 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/images/FullSizeBronco-FOTY/misc/rss.jpg http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237097&goto=newpost Wed, 19 Jun 2013 05:56:33 GMT Looks like there's some interest in my version of the tonneau cover / bikini top I'm building for my Bronco, so I thought I'd start a thread with some pics.

To start with, I give props to Wileec for his bikini build. In his case, he already had a soft top, so the bikini was a later add-on.

When it gets summer time around here, I like to take the hard top off. But we get some flash showers and really didn't want to get the cargo area soaked. Plus there are times when shade is nice, especially for those folks in the back seat.

I also wanted it be pretty much plug-n-play. Undo the bolts, take off the hard top, bolt on the rails, snap on the cover. Simple is good.

I started with figuring out what kind of fabric I wanted. I decided to go with the Sunbrella tan # 6014. It's a good match for my interior, and being marine duty, it'll pretty water and sun resistant. I was able to find a 3 yard roll (60x108") for $50 shipped. I also picked up some heavy duty thread, some snaps and snap screw studs, and some 1" webbing and clip straps. I figured 3 yards would be enough for the tonneau cover and the bikini top.

The rails are 2"x 1/4" aluminium flat bar. I centered the top screw holes 1/2" from the outside edge, marked my holes and drilled them out. The left and right sides are mirror images except for the very last screw.



I ran the screw studs 1/2" from the inside edge, spaced every 8" or so. I used a side grinder to trim off the excess screw length. I used the same 8" spaceing for the screw studs in the tailgate. I already had a protective cover on the top of the tailgate so drilling some more holes didn't bother me. Other folks might want to get creative here. Now that i had the snap studs in place, I could start getting exact measurements.

I used two yards of fabric, leaving me with 60"x72". A seamstress friend suggested that I use webbing around the edges, inside the hem. I decided on 1" webbing, and two wraps on every edge gave me a working size of 56x68" Based on where I put the screw studs on the rails, I only needed the 66" from side to side. 56" from front to back gave me enough room to snap to the tailgate and go all the way forward to the rear edge of the back seat when it's folded up.



Some support was needed under the cover, so I picked up a pair of wooden bows from an ebay store and the sockets they fit into. The forward bow was placed where the front edge of the fabric would reach. The middle bow was placed just behind the seat in its un-folded configuration. Each bow was cut to length to leave a bit of a bow, then stained and sealed. Screw studs were placed in the center, then 18" and 8" from the ends.

Now I could start prepping the fabric. 1" webbing was taped along the each edge using sewing adhesive, then folded twice. Stiches were run on the inside and outside of the webbing.





I ran another strip of webbing under the cover where it rests against the middle bow. With my wife's help, we held the fabric at the rear, and centered the webbing over the rear corner snap studs. We marked the stud location with a marker, then I proceeded to use a soldering iron as a hot knife and punched holes on the marks and set my first snaps. We snapped on the rear coners, and proceeded to do the same thing at the front. Now that we had all four corners set, i i took my hot knife and punched holes over every screw stud. placed snaps, then tested the fit again. So far so good.

The only change I made was that I realized it could be pretty tight to get the cover snapped in place so I added finger pull loops on the front corners and middle sides. This gives me some to grab onto and stretch it to fit. You want it pretty snug. If it's loose, it'll billow and sag driving down the road. Eventually I'll add some kind of weather seal on the inside edge of the rail

With the cover done, I could start work on the bikini top.



I added a pad-eye at the rear so I could clip the top to it, and picked up some marine bimini hardware. I found a hinge and a 1" ID end cap, then I located some 1" aluminium tubing. I chose 2 6' tubes, which is plenty. Rather than fussing with bending them, I located some elbows as well.

I made an educated guess as to where I wanted the hinge, and screwed it into place. The tubes are still on order, so all I can do in the mean time is sew up the top.

I ended up with a 60x38" piece of fabric left over from the cover. I placed screw studs on the upper cowl of the cab, on the lip where the weather seal rests. Each stud was dipped in silicone to seal the hole and the excess thread trimmed off.

I used the 1" webbing in the front to reinforce the snaps then used a bimini strap to reinforce the sides. Those straps were 8' long, so I trimmed some the length and used parachute clips and buckles to make them adjustable



So far, here's what it looks like. I expect to wrap this up this weekend and will post more pics as i go along.



With the rear seat folded up



With the seat folded back and the front portion of the cover tucked behind the seat. ]]> 78 - 96 Build Forum....Builds only Bebop_Man http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237097 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237089&goto=newpost Wed, 19 Jun 2013 05:52:31 GMT 1979 Bronco

I installed 4" front springs with no other hardware. This worked BUT of course the axle is pulled to the drivers side about 1.25" causing interference between the front driveshaft and the header collector.

(Remember this isn't a daily driver, but isn't a 100% trail rig, either)

So, to remedy the axle location, I cut the track bar and welded in a 1.25" slug of 1.125 round stock. This recentered my axle but then my steering is messed up. Turning left could still hit the steering stop, but turning right didn't come close.

Since the pitman arm is master keyed, I can't recenter the wheel/steering box.

So, to remedy THIS I cut the center link and welded in a 1.25" slug of 1" round stock.

Right now, this works. The axle is centered, the steering can go stop to stop and the steering wheel is damn close to straight up. This will suffice for some mud fun the weekend after the 4th of July. BUT... I want to do this better and more adjustable to get things dead nuts.

I think I want to stick with TRE's and not go heims right now.

I'll need to build a track bar and a center link. I should go ahead and build a tie rod too.

Searching I've found others have used 1.5" DOM .25 wall with Chevy TREs. Part numbers on the TREs are ES2026R, ES2027L, ES2234R, and ES2233L. Ruff Stuff has tube inserts and jam nuts.

Questions:

1.) The factory center link attaches to the tie rod just inside the passenger side TRE. How do I fabricate this into the tie rod DOM? EDIT: OK, ES2233L
is a Chevy TRE with the attachment point on it.

2.) Will the above TRE part numbers (standard Chevy stuff) require enlarging or reaming my existing knuckles and/or pitman arm? What specs will I need to meet to make them work? Better yet, what reamer will I need to purchase?

3.) For the track bar, should I just use heims on the factory brackets? Are there factory style bushing ends I can use on the end of some DOM instead of heims?

Finally, is it just simply easier to order the Ruff Stuff "Y" Link Steering Using GM 1 Ton TRE? $255 gets me all the parts to do what I want using 1-ton Chevy TREs.

Oh, one more question: If I invest all of this money and time to do this on my current D44, will I be able to reuse everything when I install my D60 front? ]]> wevie http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237089 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237058&goto=newpost Wed, 19 Jun 2013 03:23:22 GMT Long time classic bronco owner and now looking for a '78/79 Bronco. Looking to learn what I need to know to make an informed purchase.

I linked to this site so many times from Google searches I figured I should join. ]]> Introductions Techlaf http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237058 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237050&goto=newpost Wed, 19 Jun 2013 02:47:09 GMT has anyone done an egr delete on a 1994 bronco 351w i am sick of that damn thing i have the elderbrock top end on it and elderbrock heads and headers and the dang egr pip dont fit anymore its to short and dont reach the egr anymore i had a pip made for it but it snapped after a year and half so i... has anyone done an egr delete on a 1994 bronco 351w i am sick of that damn thing i have the elderbrock top end on it and elderbrock heads and headers and the dang egr pip dont fit anymore its to short and dont reach the egr anymore i had a pip made for it but it snapped after a year and half so i am toying with the idea of deleteing it. my mechanic will pass me with out it so i am not worried about it and rjm fule injection sells the plug and plate and a sesnor to plug into the egr harness to send a close signal to the computer i am just wondering if anyone has done this ?:goodfinge ]]> Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone! sammyc20 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237050 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237042&goto=newpost Wed, 19 Jun 2013 02:26:17 GMT 1991 XLT. I am obviously a noob and I have searched but didn't see anything exactly like my problem so I'm gonna ask for help.

The passenger side power window switch has never worked since I've had it but I could always control both windows with the driver's side switches. The power windows both froze at exactly the same time as I was lowering both of them at the same time a few weeks ago. I rode around like this for a few days until I could buy new switches. I replaced the passenger switch (which never worked before) and it worked fine and still works fine. That is, I can operate the passenger window with the switch in the passenger door.

I also replaced both switches on the driver's side. I was able to raise the driver's side window (which at that time was still stuck at the midway point from when it "froze" when I tried to lower it previously) immediately after I replaced the switch but that is all. Now it is stuck in the raised position and will not move which is not a good scenario with no AC in Alabama in the summer. Also, the driver's side switch that controls the passenger window does not work. I tinkered around with the actuator hoping that maybe it was frozen and just needed a little elbow grease but that didn't work. Any idea where to start? ]]> Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone! jbcannonuga http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237042 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237034&goto=newpost Wed, 19 Jun 2013 02:23:17 GMT So I have a 94 bronco with a 351, and it has an exhaust leak (I believe its a cracked exhaust manifold) and I have some headers still from my old 69 mustang. They are hooker long tubes for a 69 mustang with a 302 and I was really hoping that i can just throw them on there and go. I obviously know... So I have a 94 bronco with a 351, and it has an exhaust leak (I believe its a cracked exhaust manifold) and I have some headers still from my old 69 mustang. They are hooker long tubes for a 69 mustang with a 302 and I was really hoping that i can just throw them on there and go. I obviously know they wont fit to the stock connectors to run the stock exhaust, Id run new pipes, but i just want to know if they will bolt on to the motor and not hit shit.
Thanks! ]]> Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone! SMatyac http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237034 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237026&goto=newpost Wed, 19 Jun 2013 02:19:40 GMT Finally scrounged up the money for some tires to match my brand new 15x12 wheels that have been collecting dust in my room for about 9 months. 33x12.50 Bfg mud terrain km2 with about half tread on them. Got a good deal really couldnt pass it up. Ill take a before and after pic and have it up by... Finally scrounged up the money for some tires to match my brand new 15x12 wheels that have been collecting dust in my room for about 9 months. 33x12.50 Bfg mud terrain km2 with about half tread on them. Got a good deal really couldnt pass it up. Ill take a before and after pic and have it up by friday to see what yall think


Sent from AutoGuide.com App ]]> Wheels/Tires Jlthieman http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237026 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237018&goto=newpost Wed, 19 Jun 2013 01:15:54 GMT What's goin on folks? Just bought this '88 Bronco Eddie Bauer edition with the 5.8l EFI in it. No cracks in interior, 50k on motor, 20 on transmission and transfer case and $2,200 with pretty minor body damage. Has a 6" lift and 35X12.5 tires.

Had a Nissan Frontier before and rebuilt an '86 with a 302 for my little brother last summer. Had to have one after that!

Can't seem to post pics without a URL? Looked for the manage attachments link and no avail... Using Safari on Mac, not sure if the code loads any different. ]]> Introductions BigRed88 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237018 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237002&goto=newpost Wed, 19 Jun 2013 00:48:32 GMT Hey all.. Sorry for the short notice.. I've been out of the loop with a lot of things lately..

The next Adopt-a-Trail meeting will be held at Corona Sizzler tomorrow Wednesday, June 19th. Dinner will be from 6-7 PM. The meeting will be held from 7-9 PM.

(At the corner of Rimpau and Magnolia right off the 15 freeway. About 1 mile from the 15/91 interchange.

1461 Rimpau Avenue
Corona, Ca
(909) 272-8255

I'll be there.. ]]> West Coast Chapter Spectre http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237002 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236986&goto=newpost Tue, 18 Jun 2013 23:27:53 GMT I ordered a new upper run (the strip in the top) and between the malware blocks that have been going on, the picture removals, and just aged threads, i cant find what installing it entails. So a few questions, What do i have to do to get the old one out? do i have to take the top off? does it screw... I ordered a new upper run (the strip in the top) and between the malware blocks that have been going on, the picture removals, and just aged threads, i cant find what installing it entails. So a few questions, What do i have to do to get the old one out? do i have to take the top off? does it screw in, glue in, or just set in? Seattle FSB had a good write up, but now with the pics removed, well, im a visual learner. Can someone help enlighten me? ]]> Alex95 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236986 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236970&goto=newpost Tue, 18 Jun 2013 21:54:08 GMT I use supermotors to load my pics but I cant see them on my build thread or anything anymore. really would like to be able to see my pictures even the old ones will not show up.:banghead Is it me or what any suggestions would be great. thanks I use supermotors to load my pics but I cant see them on my build thread or anything anymore. really would like to be able to see my pictures even the old ones will not show up.:banghead
Is it me or what
any suggestions would be great. thanks ]]> Anything Else SJeuck53 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236970 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236962&goto=newpost Tue, 18 Jun 2013 21:16:25 GMT Anyone in the area, anyone hang out, go hit any trails?

I'm a bit of a noob, picked up an 89 XLT, got it to have fun and learn on.

I've only been living here since January of last year, so there's still a lot of area I don't know about, I'm sure. ]]> Southwest Chapter DR7429 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236962 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236954&goto=newpost Tue, 18 Jun 2013 21:16:02 GMT Is there a difference with the frames on these vehicles..Is there a difference where the transmission cross member is between a bronco and a F 150 4 x 4 both with 400 m and c-6 trans Is there a difference with the frames on these vehicles..Is there a difference where the transmission cross member is between a bronco and a F 150 4 x 4
both with 400 m and c-6 trans ]]> 78 - 96 Build Forum....Builds only outlawbob http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236954 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236946&goto=newpost Tue, 18 Jun 2013 21:10:50 GMT what is the difference between the f- 150 4 x 4 and the bronco..both with 400m and c-6 transmission are the transmission mounts different... thanks what is the difference between the f- 150 4 x 4 and the bronco..both with 400m and c-6 transmission
are the transmission mounts different...
thanks ]]> Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone! outlawbob http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236946 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236938&goto=newpost Tue, 18 Jun 2013 19:46:20 GMT Hi - hope y'all will allow me to thread two questions together. I think they may be related.

Recently replaced the water pump & have a small leak coming from the back of the pump, dripping off one of the bolts that holds the back plate on. It never occurred to me that I might need to tighten the bolts on the back of the water pump before installing. Anyway it's not so bad that I thought it couldn't wait. It leaves the smallest spot on the driveway & doesn't leak when the car is not running.

Now I have a belt squeal (chirp) at about 1500 RPM & above. No squeal at idle. Growing up always heard belt squeals while accelerating are a loose belt so I installed a new belt tensioner. The new tensioner is stiffer than the original but the squeal is still there. If I blast the belt / pulleys with some dressing the noise goes away for a day or two.

If I clean the belt / pulleys with soap & water (as someone here suggested) the squeal goes away for a week. Could it be the drip of coolant over a period of time causes the serpentine belt to slip & squeal?

I have been all over the front of that engine with a mechanics stethoscope & the cannot determine that the squeal is coming from any one particular spot.

Oh & I bought a thin wrench hoping to get onto the bolt back of the water pump, no luck. So guess I have to remove the pump & do it again? Make sure this time I pull the back plate off use RTV on it to?

thank you

edit: The sound could be well described as more of a chirp than a squeal. :toothless ]]> Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone! 302 richie http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236938