Fuel Nylon line connector replacement - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Fuel Nylon line connector replacement

Here's another technical forum howto. I searched and did not see anything posted so I figure I would post on howto repair nylon fuel connectors.

On older ford, it's common when replacing lines or filters that the nylon fuel filter clips will break. These new lines are ridiculously
priced from your Ford Stealership. In some cases, I've seen persons pay upwards to $200-$400 for fuel line.

1st off let's be safe, no smoking, open flames or ignition devices.

2nd release fuel pressure off the line. You can use various means ( inertia switch and run engine dry, bleed it at the rail, pull the pump relay,etc..)

Okay now let's get started. Tools that are a must have;

fuel disconnect tool ( in my case , I was working on the line from EFI side of the fuel filter )

( various disconnect tools that I have )

nylon line cutters ( wirecutters, razor, etc...)

a medium sized port for heating water
new line from any parts suppliers; I used my local parts distributor but NAPA, Rockauto, Bronocograveyard and autozone has the replacement lines

Is advise able to find a bending guide like some #6awg wire. I happen to have this laying around since I work on AC systems installation on the side.

1st let look at the broken connector

The female connector body is cracked. It can fit back on the filter male portion;

But why risk it and create other issues such as a fire, or loss of pressure if the line is not 100% secured. You don't want this line failing at the worst spot and causing a disable FSB or worst a engine bay fire.

Next, let 's remove the line from the metal hoses. 2 humps exists on the tubing that holds the hose ( nylon part ). It needs to be heated via some hot water and remove. The water does not need to be boiling just hot.

If you R married, you might need to send you wife to the grocery store or hair saloon. She might not be to happy with a car part in a cooking pot ;

About 1-2 mins in very hot water and you can then, pull, wriggle the line off. After the line is off, we can now match up bends with our #6awg guide.

( old line with outer tubing protector )

( metal line and take time to notice the humps )

( bare nylon line )

( matching the bend )

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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Okaypage 2

just like we use the hot water to remove the line from the tube, we use hot water to make the bend and with a small piece of AGW #6 as guide installed with in the tube

After line is heated and bent to match the shape of the existing line, you should have a piece that somewhat ressembles the item you removed

If not satisfied, just insert it back into the hot water and make more bends. Make sure you resinstall the outer protector tube before completing this operation.

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Okay page #3,

Re insert new assmebly back onto the metal fuel line. Make sure you push the new line assembly over BOTH metal humps that was show at the begining of this thread. It is important to heat the metal line and nylon line when doing this. So use that hot water.

Your line should look like this

As a added proetction, I used a fuel-hose [B]clamp/B] to firmly secure the line but it's not required and also heat wrap the line ( delivery ) since I have headers and alot of heat on the back left corner of the engine. Don't use a standard worm clamp on fuel delivery lines due to the risk of the grooves cutting into the lines.

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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Total time to do all of this was under 50mins. Which also included disconnecting the line at the rail and filter.

Doorman part# 800-055 was used and my cost was about $22 dollars but other places does have the repair kit for under $17.00. I was in a rush and did not have time to shop around.
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