How To: Bypass Dash Rear Window switch. - Ford Bronco Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-17-2010, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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How To: Bypass Dash Rear Window switch.

Here is my way to give back to the site!

A simple write up on how to track down those rear window problems. You will need 2 strips of wire.

To remove the switch,you have to remove the cluster panel to get to the two phillip screws behind the panel that hold the switch in.

Dash harness with switch removed.



How to roll window down.


How to roll window up.


Connector pinout


If this solves Your rear window problems,you have a bad dash switch. You can either clean or replace yours.


Thanks for looking!

92 Bronco, 351 Motor.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-29-2010, 08:10 PM
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k that didnt work so now im blaming the t.g. saftey switch ,must be bad since motor still works and ive tryed moving t.g. around and slammed it shut a few times with no luck ..so now i need to figure out how to bypass that saftey switch ..
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-30-2010, 04:23 AM
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take the panel off and there's a small two wire connector attached to the harness in the tailgate next to the latch handle i used a wire to jump connections and taped it up

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-14-2010, 05:02 PM
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how do you take the panel off the knob for the headlights is in the way
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-14-2010, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishinkid08 View Post
how do you take the panel off the knob for the headlights is in the way
Do a search for the proper way.
I first took that panel off when I first got the truck and did not now how to do it. I just pulled the knob,which I dont recommended doing.

EDIT: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/show...headlight+knob

EDIT #2: I didnt realize I linked you to your own thread.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 06:03 PM
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BeastBronk, your three images don't pull up!
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 09:06 PM
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 09:23 PM
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I've read that several times and still trying to grasp it.

The main goal right now is to get the dash switch to work.

I tested the switch terminals ohms and removed the ground to make sure it was clean.

I'm receiving power to the switch and no corrosion. The ground bolt was tight and the site shinny.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 10:20 PM
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What ground bolt?
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 11:05 PM
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It is for the dash switch and is attached to the driver side of the kick panel.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 11:19 PM
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-06-2014, 01:56 AM
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The serial-switched polarity-reversing circuit used for the t/g & passenger windows is more complicated than it looks, and it requires BOTH switches be installed & functional when in their OFF positions. So the lack of response when using the dash switch doesn't exclude the possibility that the fault is in the the t/g key switch, the interlock switch, or any of the wiring. You have to check virtually everything: full logic of each switch; continuity of each wire (or voltage under load); battery voltage AND ground under load at the dash.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-06-2014, 06:27 PM
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WOW, I haven't even put a dent in it. My door windows roll up fast while my t/g using the eye is a lot slower.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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