IFS Axle Pivot Bushing Replacement - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-25-2009, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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IFS Axle Pivot Bushing Replacement

I'm fixing to replace the pivot bushings in my 95. Any specific tooling I will need for this or any other tips and pointers?
Thanks
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-25-2009, 09:36 PM
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Needle wrench is always helpful along with a ratchetstrap

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 01:15 AM
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Just telling you this right now,its a Pain in the ASS. you will have to pound out the metal sleeves that come factory. It take at leat 30 minutes per side.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 01:19 AM
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Might have to align it as well.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 02:20 AM
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Do a search for axle pivot bushings, or look in the tech write-ups, or go to my Supermotors album. I made my own tool to remove these, since they are pressed into the axle beam. A balljoint press can also be used, JSM84

linky:

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/1133/33818-4
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 06:50 AM
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Not looking forward to doing that again. Not fun... good luck
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 12:44 PM
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I just replaced both of mine when i did my lift, used an air hammer to bend the edges of the metal bushing in then hammered it back through the hole.. air hammer those edges as much as you can as i have learned even a little lip can cause it to hang.. as the rivets did.. so don't be afraid to really twist up that metal bushing all around so that it can be hammered/pushed through without hanging up on the edge...

it also helps before you start hammering to try and get the metal sleeve out from the center.. i did that on one and not the other and it was MUCH easier without it... i used a socket that was about that size and just tapped it out

They only go in one way so chances are yours are mushroomed on one side as mine were so make sure you push them back through the right way and it shouldn't be too hard... took me about an hour to get both out and iam a noob at working on my rig and air tools

in addition if the metal edges on the axle beam are a bit torn up after you get the old ones out you might want to smooth them out before you put the new ones on... grind them etc... hope this helps
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks for the info guys, I have gathered tooling required thanks to JSM84. Sounds like the same thing as when I removed control arm bushings from a Trans Am I'm restoring so I know what to expect.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-27-2009, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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What a pain in the ass, got most of the drivers side done. I took that opportunity to also install new radius arm bushings and coil springs. I still need to reinstall the springs and shocks and then I get to start the pass side, yahoo.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-27-2009, 10:40 AM
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Cool Beans!!! IT normally takes me about 30 minutes to remove & install one side, but it has taken over an hour to get a gew out. As mentioned in my write-up, if you get the new poly bushings without the metal sleeves like I did for the 84, you need to take care of the old ones when pulling thtem. Can't booger them up with an air chisel, and it's a real pITA to get the old rubber out. TTB blows, JSM84
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 10:45 PM
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I am in the middle of completing this and would have to say it has been a huge PITA. Has anyone else had trouble lining up the bushing hole to put the bolt back in once the new bushing was pressed in? I can pound a pointed punch all the way through but I cannot get the bolt to start, the bushing hole is about half covered. Any suggestions? Tomorrow I plan to try using ratcheting straps to pull the axle, but any suggestions about where to jack it up, etc would be appreciated.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 10:52 PM
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ive done them on the ground, with a couple wrenches, a hammer, a jack, a sawzall, and a smaller diamater bolt to drive the centering bolt out.

i just used a sawzall to cut the metal sleeve of the old one a couple times (Center out).. made it easy to get out.

lining up the bolt wasn't ever that hard. get it lined up before you put the bolt through.. if you're REALLY having problems, you can always ground one side of the end of the bolt down so it centers itself (or grind it to a point) but i've never had to do this for ap bushings.

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 11:49 PM
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Use a drill to drill several holes in the old rubber, push out what's left and scrape the hole clean.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by archaicguy View Post
I'm fixing to replace the pivot bushings in my 95. Any specific tooling I will need for this or any other tips and pointers?
Thanks
just did it a while back. first off remove the whole front end. i know your thinking that too much work but i didnt and it was a pain working down there. also one of my bushing sleeves went in crooked and i couldnt get it straight. just make shure your careful cause those axle tubes are heavy.

when you go to take the old sleeves out DO NOT use a sawzall to cut em out. use a chisel or punch to bend the tapered end in and then pound it out, they're much weaker than they look.

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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 12:52 AM
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Ya know, mine came out real easy. Folded in the flared edge and a couple of whacks with a hammer and chisle and they came right out. Factory bushings too.
I did have the TTB sections on saw horses though.

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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 01:06 AM
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to save work and headache, especially in the future, pull your radius arm mounts. Unbolt, drill rivets, whatever has to happen.

Then when you go back it, bolt up the pivot bushings, then mount the radius arm brackets to the radius arms, then bolt the brackets to the frame.

It is SOOO much easier to do it this way, even though cutting and driving rivets is a PITA, it's less so than stuff not wanting to line up.

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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 11:35 AM
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Thanks for the help fellas, to get the passenger side pivot bushing lined up I jacked up the driver's side frame and removed the driver's side radius arm nut. This allowed me to push on the tire and move the bushing into place.
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 11:39 AM
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X's 2 on the sawzall and chisle. Used 2 jacks, a jack stand, and a pry bar, to line the bolt holes back up. Not the PITA that some have spoken of. I've got a 6" lift which made it even more of a challenge. My only problem was worrying that I was going about it the wrong way. Lack of confidence while using a sawzall on my baby was the real PITA...
Unless you're a rockcrawler. TTB is beast! I wouldn't trade for straight axle for any price.
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 01:30 PM
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just did it a while back. first off remove the whole front end. i know your thinking that too much work but i didnt and it was a pain working down there.

??? Where should he start and stop? The "front end" is pretty vague.

when you go to take the old sleeves out DO NOT use a sawzall to cut em out. You emphasized this... Why not?
It's not a bad idea to elaborate on something if your going to emphatically swat down someone else's advice.

Nice work getting it figured out Shaq!
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 04:37 PM
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It's not a bad idea to elaborate on something if your going to emphatically swat down someone else's advice.

Nice work getting it figured out Shaq!
Thanks AZ... I think the reason you don't want to use a sawzall is because it would be easy to cut into the axle past the bushing. As far as how far you need to tear down the axle, I have no idea, seems like the way to do it is to just drop it down.
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